Monument to the Militia of the Proletarsky district – Moscow

Monument to the Militia of Proletarsky district

Monument to the Militia of Proletarsky district

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Monument to the Militia of the Proletarsky district – Moscow

Turning right just a few minutes walk from the street entrance to the Avtozavodskaya Metro station (the one that has some of the most impressive mosaics at platform level in the whole of the Moscow Metro system) is another impressive piece of art work from the Socialist period. This is the Monument to the Militia of the Proletarsky district which stands in the square at the beginning of the wide Avtozavodskaya Avenue.

It was inaugurated on 6 May 1980 and is dedicated to the inhabitants of the Proletarsky district of Moscow who died on all fronts during the Great Patriotic War.

The team that created the monument were; sculptors Fedor Dmitrievitch Fiveysky and Nina Grigorievna Skrynnikova; architect PPI Studenikin; engineer B Dubovoy.

The principal theme of the monument is the unity of the battle front and the home front.

We are presented by a symbolic banner of victory with a central flag pole and the banner fluttering in the wind. Towards the base of the mast are the numbers – in relief – 1941 and 1945 (the duration of the Great Patriotic War) with a small, polished, copper star between the two numbers. On the side facing towards the Metro station, considered to be the front of the monument, on the right, is a group of the armed, civilian militia marching towards the conflict. On the left are uniformed Red Army soldiers, gesturing and looking in different directions. All the individuals are male – there’s no female presence on the sculpture.

At the rear the emphasis is on the home front. Notice the apartment buildings, in the centre on the left hand side, which are surrounded by anti-aircraft guns. Barrage balloons are in the sky and at the back smoke is billowing out of factory chimneys. Rows of trucks are coming off the production line, destined for the front, and shells, ammunition and weapons are also shown as products of the factories. On the extreme left, on the edge, can be made out anti-tank defences which also constitute the monument at the point on the outskirts of Moscow where the Nazi attack was halted. (This is on the way to the present Sheremetyevo airport.)

High up, above the inscription, is a large Star, indicating this is a Socialist Moscow that is fighting and being defended by the Red Army and its people.

The inscription reads, in Russian;

Подвиг пролетариев, павших за свободу и независимость Родины, навсегда останется в памяти народа. Вечная слава героям

which translates as;

The exploit of the proletarians who have fallen for the freedom and independence of the homeland will forever remain in the memory of the people. Eternal glory to the heroes.

At the base of the mast, at the back, are the names of the sculptural/architectural team of the creators of the monument.

The sculpture is 15 metres high and the design is of copper sheeting forged on a steel framework. The whole structure rests on a stepped, polished, red granite base.

During the May 9th holiday this monument is the site of various celebratory events by both civilian and military organisations – the aftermath of one such which can be seen in some of the photographs.

(If you were to turn left from the entrance of Avtozavodskaya Metro station, go to the next junction and cross the road you will find yourself next to ‘VI Lenin amongst the fir trees’ at Avtozavodskaya Street, 23.)

Location;

Avtozavodskaya Square.

GPS;

55.70753 N

37.65856 E

How to get there;

Just a short walk from the entrance of Avtozavodskaya Metro station, on Line 2.

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Central Museum of the Armed Forces of the USSR/Central Armed Forces Museum – Moscow

Glory to the Soviet Union!

Glory to the Soviet Union!

Central Museum of the Armed Forces of the USSR/Central Armed Forces Museum – Moscow

The main reason I wanted to go to the Central Museum of the Armed Forces of the USSR/Central Armed Forces Museum in Moscow was because I had learnt that it was there that the Nazi banners that had been thrown into the mud at the base of the Lenin Mausoleum (with Comrade Stalin accepting them on behalf of the Soviet people) on the first Victory Day on May 9th, 1945, were presently on display.

On my first visit to Moscow (way back in 1972) these banners were in a huge glass case which covered the whole floor of a room in what was then the Museum of the Revolution. This was up by Pushkin Square and close to the Izvestia offices. However, following the collapse of the Soviet Union and the chaos that followed in the 1990s anything which smacked of revolution was a no-no and that particular museum went through a number of manifestations. In the process much that had been on display pre-1990 disappeared and it is only relatively recently that some of it has begun to be, yet again, on display to the general public.

(What used to be the Museum of the Revolution is now called the Museum of the Modern History of Russia – Muzey Sovremennoy Istorii Rossii. Although there are some interesting and valuable artefacts which help in the telling of the history of the Soviet Union following the October Revolution it is generally a poor shadow of what it once was. The final section, ‘bringing things up to date’, is more like something you’d expect at an international exhibition than a museum.)

However, I think the Central Museum of the Armed Forces of the USSR/Central Armed Forces Museum has much more to offer than just the Nazi banners on the floor. There is a manner in which to display objects to show utter contempt for what they represent. From my memory that was achieved in the original location in the centre of the city but there’s less of that impression (to my mind) in their present location, even though they are still displayed in cases on the floor.

From my experience Russian museums are crammed full of artefacts. Sometimes so many that very soon you feel assaulted by so many different objects. That being the case the best approach is to ‘skim’ what you pass, taking more time on anything, perhaps more unusual, that might catch your eye.

The starting point in the first room is the War of Intervention or the Civil War. This was when the Red Army was formed, first out of Bolsheviks and irregulars who volunteered to defend the Revolution from the reactionaries, both national and international. However, within a very short time this army took on the aspects of a fully organised and structured army which eventually was able to defeat all attempts to strangle the Revolution from birth.

Later rooms go through the events of the Great Patriotic War and into later, sometimes not well chosen wars (such as that in Afghanistan) and through to the present with a small room dedicated to the Special Military Operation in the Ukraine.

In the slide show at the end of this post you will see that I have concentrated on the various banners and standards under which those fighting to defend the Revolution fought, as well as artistic representations of those battles and achievements. There’s a limited depiction of military hardware as, with a few exceptions, these are more or less generic and were used by all fighting forces in any particular epoch or conflict. I find what is unique to the Soviet Union (the way it presented itself; the battle of ideas through posters and other types of propaganda; and how the struggles were presented to the masses to be much more interesting.

In any visit to the museum here are a few suggestions of what to look out for;

  • the large bust of VI Lenin at the top of the stairs immediately facing the main entrance;
  • the whole wall covering mosaic on the wall on the first floor landing – depicting on the right the struggle to maintain the Revolution during the civil war into the 1920s and on the other the Great Patriotic War and the defeat of German invading Nazism;
  • the large painting in the second room (on the left had side on entering the room) which depicts the members of the Central Committee of the Bolshevik Party at the time of the October Revolution. This is an unusual way to present the individuals who were the leading cadres of the Revolution. I foolishly didn’t take note of the artist or when the painting was created but note Trotsky skulking at the extreme left hand side;
  • the many banners, representing factories and places of work, of the volunteers who went to fight against the Whites and the fourteen, intervening imperialist powers;
  • the propaganda posters produced by both sides in the conflict;
  • the machine gun fitted to the back of a horse drawn buggy;
  • the various sculptures demonstrating the unity of the workers and the peasants;
  • the make-shift armoured vehicles;
  • the multi-ethnic and multi-national extent of the revolutionary forces;
  • the distinctive uniform of the first Red Army;
  • the ceramic vase with an image of Joseph Stalin, Mikhail Frunze and other civil war military commanders;
  • the huge, wooden fist with the words ‘пролстарский кулак врагм ссср’ which translates as ‘the proletarian kulak is an enemy of the USSR’;
  • the images of VI Lenin and JV Stalin on the banners of the Great Patriotic War;
  • the porcelain statue of an embrace and a kiss;
  • images of heroism;
  • ‘the battle in the rear’;
  • the Nazi standards on the floor in the Victory Room;
  • the Iron Crosses;
  • the shattered eagle that used to stand on top of the Reichstag in Berlin;
  • Hitler’s personal standard;
  • the image of Marshal Zhukov riding his horse over the Nazi standards in Red Square on May 9th 1945;
  • the fine bust of JV Stalin, together with his military dress uniform;
  • the shattered remains of the U2 American spy plane;
  • the Red Army and and women flanking the main entrance to the museum;

among much more.

Location;

Soviet Army Street, Moscow

GPS;

55.78503 N

36.61708 E

How to get there;

The museum is a little over a five minute walk from the Dostoyevskaya Metro station on the Line 10 (Green). Leave by the exit that leads to the Red Army Theatre. Go past the right hand side of the theatre and at the road junction/pedestrian crossing take the right, once on the other side go left and the museum is about 100 metres on the right.

The North River Terminal – Moscow

North River Terminal - Entrance Hall

North River Terminal – Entrance Hall

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The North River Terminal – Moscow

The North River Terminal in Moscow has reopened [in 2020] after two years of reconstruction. Dubbed ‘the river gates of Moscow’, it was the main gateway for travellers to the Caspian, Azov, White, Black and Baltic seas via the Volga and Don Rivers [and for this reason was also called the ‘Five Seas Port’]. It is also one of the first built in the Stalinist Empire style in 1937. [Other examples of this architectural style can be found on this page, specifically the ‘Seven Sisters’.] Architects Alexei Rukhlyadev and Vladimir Krinsky [don’t know where he comes into it as his name doesn’t appear on the official plaque on the wall at the riverside entrance – although he gets referenced on various architectural website] created a real Soviet masterpiece: from a distance, it looks like a huge ship, crowned with a 27-meter spire (together with it, the building reaches 75 meters in height).

After the fall of the USSR, the building and the park around it fell into disrepair, however, in 2018, authorities decided to revive it and in early September 2020, the River Terminal reopened after a two-year reconstruction. And it looks amazing!

The building has returned [to] its original look: the columns and halls have been restored, including mosaics with Soviet symbols.

Outside, the façade is decorated with historical medallions with various ideological themes, such as the country’s main constructions, Moscow metro trains, the development of the Arctic and big ships.

All of its 17 piers have also been repaired and now the Terminal will be able to receive up to 24 ships a day. Moscow officials said they expect 1.5 million tourists during the navigation season.

From here, you’ll be able to take a cruise to St. Petersburg, Yaroslavl, Kazan, Nizhny Novgorod, Astrakhan, Volgograd, Kostroma, Saratov and even Valaam.

….

On the roof, there’s now an observation desk with a panoramic view of the Khimki reservoir.

….

Soviet fountains and navy-themed sculptures were restored in the park around the Terminal.

Text above from Moscow’s Stalinist Empire-style North River Terminal opens after large-scale renovation

The medallions that flank the columns of the entrance on both sides of the terminal are created for the passenger either about to leave or arriving in Moscow. Those which passengers on their way to their ship for other parts of the country are faced with those sort of images they will encounter on their journey. So we have images of various types of ships they might encounter (remember the building was constructed in the late 1930s) as well as an image of the entrance of the Volga canal (complete with a statue of Comrade Stalin).

The Volga Canal

The Volga Canal

For those who are arriving in Moscow there are images of Red Square; the Lenin Mausoleum; the Red Army Theatre (although I haven’t been able to confirm if it ever had a statue on the top); the Mayakovsky Metro station; the never built Palace of the Soviets, which was planned to have a huge statue of VI Lenin standing on the top, as well as representations of industry and even war production.

The Palace of the Soviets

The Palace of the Soviets

Also to note are the three emblems of what used to be the Latvian, Estonian and Lithuanian Soviet Republics. They are depicted high up on the walls of the entrance hall but I doubt there are any departures to those locations at the moment – or for the foreseeable future. It must be said, however, that the Soviet emblems are much more attractive than the ones they presently use to represent their countries.

Architects;

Alexei Rukhlyadev

(possibly) Vladimir Krinsky

Sculptors;

IS Efimov

LA Kardashov

Artists;

N Ya Danko

AI Shcherbakov

Location;

51, Leningradskoye Highway

GPS;

55°51′03.93″ N

37°28′00.94″ E

How to get there;

The nearest Metro station is Rechnoy Vokzal (which means ‘River Station’) on the northern part of Line 2. The terminal is about a ten minute walk from the station.

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