Central Museum of the Armed Forces of the USSR/Central Armed Forces Museum – Moscow

Glory to the Soviet Union!

Glory to the Soviet Union!

Central Museum of the Armed Forces of the USSR/Central Armed Forces Museum – Moscow

The main reason I wanted to go to the Central Museum of the Armed Forces of the USSR/Central Armed Forces Museum in Moscow was because I had learnt that it was there that the Nazi banners that had been thrown into the mud at the base of the Lenin Mausoleum (with Comrade Stalin accepting them on behalf of the Soviet people) on the first Victory Day on May 9th, 1945, were presently on display.

On my first visit to Moscow (way back in 1972) these banners were in a huge glass case which covered the whole floor of a room in what was then the Museum of the Revolution. This was up by Pushkin Square and close to the Izvestia offices. However, following the collapse of the Soviet Union and the chaos that followed in the 1990s anything which smacked of revolution was a no-no and that particular museum went through a number of manifestations. In the process much that had been on display pre-1990 disappeared and it is only relatively recently that some of it has begun to be, yet again, on display to the general public.

(What used to be the Museum of the Revolution is now called the Museum of the Modern History of Russia – Muzey Sovremennoy Istorii Rossii. Although there are some interesting and valuable artefacts which help in the telling of the history of the Soviet Union following the October Revolution it is generally a poor shadow of what it once was. The final section, ‘bringing things up to date’, is more like something you’d expect at an international exhibition than a museum.)

However, I think the Central Museum of the Armed Forces of the USSR/Central Armed Forces Museum has much more to offer than just the Nazi banners on the floor. There is a manner in which to display objects to show utter contempt for what they represent. From my memory that was achieved in the original location in the centre of the city but there’s less of that impression (to my mind) in their present location, even though they are still displayed in cases on the floor.

From my experience Russian museums are crammed full of artefacts. Sometimes so many that very soon you feel assaulted by so many different objects. That being the case the best approach is to ‘skim’ what you pass, taking more time on anything, perhaps more unusual, that might catch your eye.

The starting point in the first room is the War of Intervention or the Civil War. This was when the Red Army was formed, first out of Bolsheviks and irregulars who volunteered to defend the Revolution from the reactionaries, both national and international. However, within a very short time this army took on the aspects of a fully organised and structured army which eventually was able to defeat all attempts to strangle the Revolution from birth.

Later rooms go through the events of the Great Patriotic War and into later, sometimes not well chosen wars (such as that in Afghanistan) and through to the present with a small room dedicated to the Special Military Operation in the Ukraine.

In the slide show at the end of this post you will see that I have concentrated on the various banners and standards under which those fighting to defend the Revolution fought, as well as artistic representations of those battles and achievements. There’s a limited depiction of military hardware as, with a few exceptions, these are more or less generic and were used by all fighting forces in any particular epoch or conflict. I find what is unique to the Soviet Union (the way it presented itself; the battle of ideas through posters and other types of propaganda; and how the struggles were presented to the masses to be much more interesting.

In any visit to the museum here are a few suggestions of what to look out for;

  • the large bust of VI Lenin at the top of the stairs immediately facing the main entrance;
  • the whole wall covering mosaic on the wall on the first floor landing – depicting on the right the struggle to maintain the Revolution during the civil war into the 1920s and on the other the Great Patriotic War and the defeat of German invading Nazism;
  • the large painting in the second room (on the left had side on entering the room) which depicts the members of the Central Committee of the Bolshevik Party at the time of the October Revolution. This is an unusual way to present the individuals who were the leading cadres of the Revolution. I foolishly didn’t take note of the artist or when the painting was created but note Trotsky skulking at the extreme left hand side;
  • the many banners, representing factories and places of work, of the volunteers who went to fight against the Whites and the fourteen, intervening imperialist powers;
  • the propaganda posters produced by both sides in the conflict;
  • the machine gun fitted to the back of a horse drawn buggy;
  • the various sculptures demonstrating the unity of the workers and the peasants;
  • the make-shift armoured vehicles;
  • the multi-ethnic and multi-national extent of the revolutionary forces;
  • the distinctive uniform of the first Red Army;
  • the ceramic vase with an image of Joseph Stalin, Mikhail Frunze and other civil war military commanders;
  • the huge, wooden fist with the words ‘пролстарский кулак врагм ссср’ which translates as ‘the proletarian kulak is an enemy of the USSR’;
  • the images of VI Lenin and JV Stalin on the banners of the Great Patriotic War;
  • the porcelain statue of an embrace and a kiss;
  • images of heroism;
  • ‘the battle in the rear’;
  • the Nazi standards on the floor in the Victory Room;
  • the Iron Crosses;
  • the shattered eagle that used to stand on top of the Reichstag in Berlin;
  • Hitler’s personal standard;
  • the image of Marshal Zhukov riding his horse over the Nazi standards in Red Square on May 9th 1945;
  • the fine bust of JV Stalin, together with his military dress uniform;
  • the shattered remains of the U2 American spy plane;
  • the Red Army and and women flanking the main entrance to the museum;

among much more.

Location;

Soviet Army Street, Moscow

GPS;

55.78503 N

36.61708 E

How to get there;

The museum is a little over a five minute walk from the Dostoyevskaya Metro station on the Line 10 (Green). Leave by the exit that leads to the Red Army Theatre. Go past the right hand side of the theatre and at the road junction/pedestrian crossing take the right, once on the other side go left and the museum is about 100 metres on the right.

Park of the Fallen/Muzeon Art Park, Moscow

Soviet emblem

Soviet emblem

More on the USSR

Park of the Fallen/Muzeon Art Park

Presented in the slide show below are images taken of some of those monuments and statues produced during the period of the construction of Socialism in the Union of Soviet Socialist Republics (USSR).

Construction worker

Construction worker

With the victory of reaction against the (admittedly weak and already corrupted revisionist) Socialist state in the 1990s many of these monuments and statues were removed from public spaces and many were left to rot. However, a re-assessment of the role of Socialist leaders of the past and with a mix of opportunism from the ruling capitalists that they could easily create another tourist attraction in the city led to the re-erection of these statues in the vicinity of the modern art gallery – which also displays art produced during the Socialist period.

The works presented here were produced over a period of about 50 years, representing the thinking of the revolutionary period as well as the period of revisionism and capitalist restoration. Those later works are included as they still represented a glimmer of the hope for a new future.

Included at images of VI Lenin, JV Stalin, Karl Marx, MI Kalinin and FE Dzerzhinsky, as well as Heroes of the Soviet Union.

Swords into ploughshares

Swords into ploughshares

Why some of these art works were considered controversial is difficult to understand. The Soviet leaders were the enemies of the new capitalist rulers so their removal can be understood. But why the references to peace or the statue of the female construction worker? Presumably it wasn’t what they are but the society that produced them and what they continue to represent.

Peace

Peace

The main concentration of the socialist art works are concentrated around the large metal emblem of the Soviet Union, in an area north west of the New Tretyakov Gallery. More contemporary sculptures are displayed in other parts of the park.

Related;

Socialist Realist Art in Albania

Museum of Socialist Art – Sofia, Bulgaria

Remnants of religious thinking in Albanian Socialist Art

The ‘Archive’ Exhibition at the Tirana Art Gallery

Socialist Realist Paintings and Sculptures in the National Art Gallery, Tirana

New Tretyakov Gallery, Moscow

Related – other statues of revolutionaries in Moscow

Ernst Thälmann – German Communist leader – statue in Moscow

Karl Marx monument, Moscow

Ho Chi Minh monument

Frederick Engels statue

Location;

In Muzeon Art Park, in which is also located the New Tretyakov Art Gallery (the gallery of 20th century Russian art).

How to get there;

The park is across the bridge over the River Moskva from the Park Kultury metro station and beside the main road that leads past the Oktyabrskaya metro station in the direction of the river. The main entrance to Muzeon Art Park is directly opposite the main entrance to Gorky Park.

GPS;

55°44′4.29″N

37°36′17.51″E

More on the USSR

Leningrad (Saint Petersburg) Metro – Ploshchad Vosstaniya – Line 1

Ploshchad Vosstaniya - A Savin

Ploshchad Vosstaniya – A Savin

More on the USSR

Moscow Metro – the world’s biggest Socialist Realist Art Gallery

Leningrad (Saint Petersburg) Metro – Ploshchad Vosstaniya – Line 1

Ploschad Vosstaniya - 01

Ploschad Vosstaniya – 01

Ploshchad Vosstaniya (Russian: Плóщадь Восстáния, lit. ‘Uprising Square’) is a station on the Kirovsko-Vyborgskaya Line of Saint Petersburg Metro. It is one of the system’s original stations, opening on November 15, 1955. It is a deep underground pylon station at 58 metres (190ft) depth. The main surface vestibule is situated on Vosstaniya Square, which gives its name to the station. Another exit (opened in 1960) opens directly into the Moskovsky Rail Terminal. Ploshchad Vosstaniya is connected to the station Mayakovskaya of the Nevsko-Vasileostrovskaya Line via a transfer corridor and a set of escalators.

Text from Wikipedia.

Ploschad Vosstaniya - 03

Ploschad Vosstaniya – 03

This is one of the metro stations where you can still see an image of Uncle Joe amongst the people who are depicted on the four roundels celebrating the October Revolution of 1917, the events leading up to it and what happened once the workers, peasants and soldiers had taken power.

Ploschad Vosstaniya - 02

Ploschad Vosstaniya – 02

Location:

Tsentralny District

GPS:

59.9316°N

30.3605°E

Depth:

58m (190ft)

Opened:

November 15, 1955

Ploschad Vosstaniya, Leningrad, 1965

Ploschad Vosstaniya, Leningrad, 1965

More on the USSR

Moscow Metro – the world’s biggest Socialist Realist Art Gallery