Special Military Operation – art and posters exhibition on a Moscow street

SMO exhibition

SMO exhibition

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Special Military Operation – art and posters exhibition on a Moscow street

I didn’t know what to expect when I entered Russia from Georgia, in late April 2024, on my way to Moscow. The country had been in a war with the US/UK/NATO/EU proxy for more than two years and although the route from the border to the capital city was not close to the conflict it wasn’t a continent away.

I thought there was a chance I would see troop and equipment movement, either along the motorways or the railway, but there was none of that. In fact, there was nothing at all that indicated the country was in the middle of an ‘existential’ war with the collective ‘West’.

Along the whole route (and even more so in Moscow itself) their were banners and posters in anticipation of the Victory Day celebrations on May 9th. These decorations might well have been more extensive than in previous years but even though these banners etc., had to accept in their imagery that it was the Soviet Red Army that had defeated the Nazis the modern day capitalist rulers of Russia would know how to use the parallel of the two struggles for their own advantage, if necessary.

But I never came across anything in the country that such a propaganda campaign in support of the government in the persecution of the war was really necessary. Yes, some young people had left the country back in 2022 in fear of being conscripted. Whether the majority of them were actually at risk of call-up could be debatable as, apart from volunteers, those called up for service were classified as reservists – who had already been in the military and whose contract specified that in certain circumstances they would be expected to rally to the cause. By all accounts there was no real opposition to this as the majority of the Russian population accept the aims of the ‘West’ even if they hadn’t read a ‘paper’ which was published by the Rand Corporation, a US government-leaning ‘think tank’, in 2019. Entitled ‘Extending Russia – competing from advantageous ground’ it lays out, almost to the letter, the ‘road map’ the ‘West’ has followed up to and since February 2022.

There might have been local opposition to the conflict but I was never aware of such and saw nothing (even overnight graffiti) that indicated real opposition to the Special Military Operation (SMO). Even those opposition groups ‘sponsored’ by the ‘West’, such as the group that Navalny once headed, would find little support for their activities if they came out directly against the war. From all that I’ve been able to learn the majority of the Russian population considered the present situation on a par with that of 1812 (with the invasion of the country by the Napoleonic imperialists) and 1941 (when the German Nazis crossed the western border of the Soviet Union). (Articles, podcasts, etc., with this point of view can be found on the page ‘The war in the Ukraine – what you are not told‘.)

Moscow, not unsurprisingly, was awash with imagery from the Great Patriotic War in readiness for May 9th but I saw nothing that was specifically addressing the SMO in the Ukraine. That was until I was walking along Arbat Street after having visited the Ministry of Foreign Affairs (one of the seven early 1950s Soviet skyscrapers). Almost to the top of this pedestrianised street, just before a large wall mural of Field Marshal Zhukov, (coincidentally?) was an open air exhibition of posters and art works relating to the war with the ‘West’s’ proxy.

Zhukov - Arbat Street

Zhukov – Arbat Street

I don’t intend to make much of a comment on the contents other than point out that even though I might consider Russia to have been provoked into this conflict (by having to respond to NATO’s expansion) and can come up with nothing rational that Russia could have done other in the circumstances that existed at the beginning of 2022 I in no way support the ‘road’ Russia has been following since the 1990s. This is a war of one capitalist country against a coalition (although very often somewhat shaky) of other capitalist countries and therefore very different from the situation that existed at the time of the Great Patriotic War of 1941-45.

Culturally the country has regressed in the last 30 or so years and although there was some reference to the battle against the Nazis the imagery in these posters took from superstition, religion, ancient Russian mythology and from conflicts with other invaders from Russia’s pre-revolutionary past.

Hopefully, the slide show will provide an idea of how the government was presenting the conflict to its own people. This exhibition was in no way directed at outsiders, not least due to its location – and, anyway, few foreigners from the ‘West’ are presently visiting Russia.

The only other public reference I encountered during my time in Moscow was a room with a large mural commemorating those who were fighting in the Ukraine in the Museum of the Great Patriotic War in Park Pobeda (Victory Park). This installation was accompanied by drawings and paintings, I assume at least some, by combatants. At the time I thought this strange, a museum with an exhibition of a current conflict? But thinking subsequently, after visiting the small museum to the Great Patriotic War in Gori, Georgia, I started to look at Soviet/Russian museums in a different light. Now, I think, I understand they are places to celebrate those who fought and might have died, for the Motherland, that they are ‘shrines’ in a sense, and places of pilgrimage for those who might have lost a relative or friend in a conflict, even one that is still ongoing.

Location;

Top end of Arbat Street, in the direction of Arbatskaya Metro station. This street unites the two metro stations of Smolenskaya and Arbatskaya.

GPS;

55.751043º N

37.596201º E

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Moscow Kievskya railway station

Kievskaya Railway Station - Sachkv

Kievskaya Railway Station – Sachkv

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Moscow Kievskya railway station

Kiyevskya railway terminal (Russian: Ки́евский вокза́л, Kievskiy vokzal) is one of the nine railway terminals of Moscow, Russia. It is the only railway station in Moscow to have a frontage on the Moskva River. The station is located at the Square of Europe, in the beginning of Bolshaya Dorogomilovskaya Street in Dorogomilovo District of Moscow. A hub of the Moscow Metro is located nearby.

Kievskaya railway station - 03

Kievskaya railway station – 03

As the name suggests, there were regular services to Kiev and many other points in Ukraine. There used to be regular services to Belgrade, Zagreb, Varna, Bucharest, Sofia, Chișinău, Niš, Budapest, Prague, Vienna and Venice as well. 15-20 years ago, all these trains were cancelled, some were transferred to the Belorussky railway station.

The station was built between 1914 and 1918 in the Byzantine Revival style, which is especially pronounced in the 51m-high (167 ft) clock tower. Originally named the Bryansk station, it was designed by Ivan Rerberg and Vladimir Shukhov, and is considered an important landmark of architecture and engineering of the time.

Text above from Wikipedia.

The decoration of the building, both inside and outside, seems to be very much as it was designed at the beginning of the 20th century. Soviet imagery just appears to have been superimposed on what could be considered tsarist baroque. This is apart from the main waiting room that had four large bas-reliefs added after the Great Patriotic War. In fact, this particular area contains the greatest amount of Soviet emblems, i.e., the hammer and sickle image, stars and also references to the Ukrainian Soviet Republic.

Kievskaya railway station - 04

Kievskaya railway station – 04

At the time of my visit in May 2024 there was also a temporary exhibition of Soviet posters (reproductions) from the time of the Great Patriotic War to coincide with the celebration of Victory Day on the 9th.

Kievskaya railway station - 05

Kievskaya railway station – 05

The exterior façade of the building includes two images of Saint George – one of him killing the dragon and the other on his stay in heaven. These appear to be coloured mosaics but I have no idea whether these were covered in the past or just allowed to be there as they were part of the original decoration. Also of interest from the original design are the four art deco statues which flank the image of George, allegories for early 20th industry and transport.

Kievskaya railway station - 01

Kievskaya railway station – 01

Also, on the left hand side of what is now the main entrance to the building is a large grey marble plaque to VI Lenin.

Kievskaya railway station - 02

Kievskaya railway station – 02

So far the building has avoided the same sort of ‘modernisation’ that has been inflicted upon other railway stations. Whether that is a sign of its now limited use or the fact that the modernisation is about to come is unknown.

Related;

Moscow Metro

Yaroslavsky mainline railway station – Moscow

Stalingrad (Volgograd) Railway Station

Kazansky Mainline Railway Station – Moscow

Architect;

Ivan Rerberg and Vyacheslav Oltarzhevsky

Chief Engineer;

Vladimir Shukhov

Location;

1, Kiyevskogo Vokzala Square

GPS;

55.743056°N

37.567222°E

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Monument to VI Lenin on Tverskaya Square

Lenin - Tverskaya Square - Ludvig14

Lenin – Tverskaya Square – Ludvig14

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Monument to VI Lenin on Tverskaya Square

Monument to Lenin on Tverskaya Square (Russian: Памятник Ленину на Тверской площади) is a sculpture of V.I. Lenin located at the back of the Russian State Archive of Socio-Political History building in Moscow. Established in 1940. The authors of the monument were sculptor Sergey Dmitriyevich Merkurov and architect I. A. Frantsuz. The monument has the status of an object of cultural heritage of federal significance.

The sculpture of V.I. Lenin is made of red granite. It is installed on a pedestal made of blocks of dark gray granite. Lenin is depicted seated and tilted forward. It seems that he listens carefully to his interlocutor. With his left hand, Lenin leaned on his knee, with a notebook in it. The right hand with a pencil – behind the back of the chair. According to art historian N. D. Sobolevsky, ‘the plastic expression of the sculptural image is in perfect harmony with the psychologically vivid image of Ilyich’. [Perhaps due to a poor translation but I have no idea what that means.]

The location of the monument was not chosen randomly. Lenin repeatedly spoke at the Tverskaya (then Soviet) Square from the balcony of the Moscow City Council building (now Moscow City Hall), which is reminiscent of a memorial plaque. The monument was installed in front of the building of the Lenin Institute under the Central Committee of the CPSU (B).

Before the installation of the monument, the sculpture of Lenin was demonstrated at the World Exhibition in 1939 in New York City.

Text above from Wikipedia.

VI Lenin - Tverskaya Square

VI Lenin – Tverskaya Square

When this statue was initially installed the area was very different from what it is now.

In 1940 anyone going into the Marx-Engels-Lenin Institute by the main entrance would have passed this statue. At some time in the next 30 years or so the main entrance to the Institute was changed to the other side of the building so the statue then became the focal point of the public square that was between the Institute and Tverskaya Street, across which is the Moscow City Council building. (There are interesting bas reliefs, one of them of Lenin, on the street level wall on either side of the main entrance of the Council building facing Tverskaya Square.)

However, part of this square has now been taken over by what seems a cross between a restaurant and a garden centre – with the installation of some imperial statue close to the main road. Although ‘officially’ not part of this ‘development’ it seems that the owners have also taken over the small part of the square that was immediately in front of Lenin’s statue. This area has been fenced off in a semi-permanent manner as a storage area for plants and garden material and so denying public access to the garden itself and the statue.

This was the first such ‘privatisation’ of a public space I encountered in Moscow as, in general, public spaces of Soviet times still remain in the public domain – not as in Albania, for example, where there was a free for all in grabbing as much of the public space as possible.

This meant that the photos in the slide show were taken either over or through the fence – not the most ideal of conditions for recording the sculpture. Hopefully what has been recorded gives an idea of the art work.

Sculptor;

Sergey Dmitriyevich Merkurov

Architect;

I.A. Frantsuz

Location;

Tverskaya square

GPS;

55.76233°N

37.61146°E

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