The North River Terminal – Moscow

North River Terminal - Entrance Hall

North River Terminal – Entrance Hall

More on the USSR

The North River Terminal – Moscow

The North River Terminal in Moscow has reopened [in 2020] after two years of reconstruction. Dubbed ‘the river gates of Moscow’, it was the main gateway for travellers to the Caspian, Azov, White, Black and Baltic seas via the Volga and Don Rivers [and for this reason was also called the ‘Five Seas Port’]. It is also one of the first built in the Stalinist Empire style in 1937. [Other examples of this architectural style can be found on this page, specifically the ‘Seven Sisters’.] Architects Alexei Rukhlyadev and Vladimir Krinsky [don’t know where he comes into it as his name doesn’t appear on the official plaque on the wall at the riverside entrance – although he gets referenced on various architectural website] created a real Soviet masterpiece: from a distance, it looks like a huge ship, crowned with a 27-meter spire (together with it, the building reaches 75 meters in height).

After the fall of the USSR, the building and the park around it fell into disrepair, however, in 2018, authorities decided to revive it and in early September 2020, the River Terminal reopened after a two-year reconstruction. And it looks amazing!

The building has returned [to] its original look: the columns and halls have been restored, including mosaics with Soviet symbols.

Outside, the façade is decorated with historical medallions with various ideological themes, such as the country’s main constructions, Moscow metro trains, the development of the Arctic and big ships.

All of its 17 piers have also been repaired and now the Terminal will be able to receive up to 24 ships a day. Moscow officials said they expect 1.5 million tourists during the navigation season.

From here, you’ll be able to take a cruise to St. Petersburg, Yaroslavl, Kazan, Nizhny Novgorod, Astrakhan, Volgograd, Kostroma, Saratov and even Valaam.

….

On the roof, there’s now an observation desk with a panoramic view of the Khimki reservoir.

….

Soviet fountains and navy-themed sculptures were restored in the park around the Terminal.

Text above from Moscow’s Stalinist Empire-style North River Terminal opens after large-scale renovation

The medallions that flank the columns of the entrance on both sides of the terminal are created for the passenger either about to leave or arriving in Moscow. Those which passengers on their way to their ship for other parts of the country are faced with those sort of images they will encounter on their journey. So we have images of various types of ships they might encounter (remember the building was constructed in the late 1930s) as well as an image of the entrance of the Volga canal (complete with a statue of Comrade Stalin).

The Volga Canal

The Volga Canal

For those who are arriving in Moscow there are images of Red Square; the Lenin Mausoleum; the Red Army Theatre (although I haven’t been able to confirm if it ever had a statue on the top); the Mayakovsky Metro station; the never built Palace of the Soviets, which was planned to have a huge statue of VI Lenin standing on the top, as well as representations of industry and even war production.

The Palace of the Soviets

The Palace of the Soviets

Also to note are the three emblems of what used to be the Latvian, Estonian and Lithuanian Soviet Republics. They are depicted high up on the walls of the entrance hall but I doubt there are any departures to those locations at the moment – or for the foreseeable future. It must be said, however, that the Soviet emblems are much more attractive than the ones they presently use to represent their countries.

Architects;

Alexei Rukhlyadev

(possibly) Vladimir Krinsky

Sculptors;

IS Efimov

LA Kardashov

Artists;

N Ya Danko

AI Shcherbakov

Location;

51, Leningradskoye Highway

GPS;

55°51′03.93″ N

37°28′00.94″ E

How to get there;

The nearest Metro station is Rechnoy Vokzal (which means ‘River Station’) on the northern part of Line 2. The terminal is about a ten minute walk from the station.

More on the USSR

Central Pavilion – Tretyakov Gallery Exhibition – VDNKh – Moscow

Pavilion No 1 and Lenin statue

Pavilion No 1 and Lenin statue

More on the USSR

Central Pavilion – Tretyakov Gallery Exhibition – VDNKh

The principal pavilion in the VDNKh park has undergone a major renovation and it has been brought back (almost) to what it was like when it opened in 1954. Some of the original works have been ‘lost’ – perhaps only mislaid as a number of art works considered ‘lost’ have subsequently been found – but a number that had been distributed to other galleries have been returned.

Although it has received a fine renovation it will never be the building as it was designed. The internal decoration, and even the naming of the various halls, was all connected to the success of the October Revolution and the construction of Socialism. That has not been created with the renovation and, in many ways, feels sterile. It is, not as it was originally, a celebration of the achievements of the Soviet people, now just an art gallery providing a few reminders of what once was.

The two slide shows at the end of the post will, it is hoped, provide some idea of what it is like to be in the building. The first is of the structure and the artistic items in the building. The second is of the high relief composition created by Yevgeny Vuchetich, who also created, amongst many more, the statue of The Motherland Calls! (in Stalingrad), ‘Let us beat swords into ploughshares’ (a version of which is outside the main entrance to the New Tretyakov Gallery in Moscow), and the statue of Felix Dzerzhinsky (which used to stand in the square outside the Lubyanka Building and now is on display in Park Muzeon, alongside the New Tretyakov Gallery).

Text below from ‘Legendary pavilion and birthday arches. Exploring iconic VDNKh attractions to mark exhibition’s 85th anniversary’

This year (2024), Pavilion No. 1 Central, one of the most monumental exhibition buildings, is also celebrating its 70th anniversary. It rises 97 meters above the ground and immediately amazes visitors with its grandeur.

Designed by architects Georgy Shchuko and Evgeny Stolyarov, the building was erected in 1950–1954 to replace the previous wooden structure. It did not fit into the new VDNKh architectural composition in the 1950s, so it was redesigned. Inspired by the Stalinist architecture, the new pavilion has got a spire with a star on top and the USSR coat of arms and 16 medallions featuring the coats of arms of the union republics on the façades on each side. Until 1963, the pavilion was called the Main Pavilion.

Its history lives in the building’s exterior and interior. The pavilion has nine thematic halls: one central hall and eight exhibition halls connected to it. During construction, all rooms were covered with artificial marble and decorated with pieces of art. The October Revolution Hall features ‘The Storming of the Winter Palace’ (1950s) by the artist Pavel Sokolov-Skalya, while the Constitution Hall houses four panels by different artists dedicated to the happy life of Soviet citizens. Only two of the four paintings have survived to this day.

The Storming of the Winter Palace

The Storming of the Winter Palace

In the 1990s, the exhibition halls were divided into two floors by mezzanines, and the entire pavilion space was packed with kiosks. In 2000, they opened a cultural centre, the House of the Peoples of Russia, with a museum. The exhibitions were housed in the building until 2014. In the same year, the pavilion kiosks were being removed. At that time, the experts discovered a plaster high relief ‘Glory to the Standard Bearer of Peace, the Soviet People!’, a great work by the sculptor Yevgeny Vuchetich, on the wall in the Hall of the Victory of the Soviet Union in the Great Patriotic War. The work had been considered irretrievably lost for 40 years. It took about a year to restore it to its former grandeur. The lost fragments have been recreated using old photographs. The 90 square meter high relief depicts more than 1,500 people, life-size figures of workers, scientists and pioneers.

Glory to the Standard Bearer of Peace, the Soviet People!

Glory to the Standard Bearer of Peace, the Soviet People!

In September 2014, experts made another discovery. On the basement floor of the building, experts discovered a painting entitled ‘The Second All-Union Congress of Collective Farmers and Shock Workers of 1935’, which was also considered lost. It is another monumental work: the canvas size is 6.75 X 11 meters. The painting was created by a group of artists led by Aleksandr Gerasimov in 1953. Other discoveries include a 1958 fresco depicting agricultural work.

In 2017, the work started to restore Pavilion No. 1 Central. The specialists have repaired the spire and the golden star crowning it, tinted the capitals, the coats of arms and ribbons on the façade to make them look like gold, and restored the original doors. They have also carried out a large-scale work inside the pavilion. In the central hall, they have discovered and cleared decorative semicircular arches hidden under a layer of plaster for more than 40 years. The experts have restored the ceiling lights, the columns made of scagliola and the parquet floors.

Text below from ‘The unknown Tsentralny: secrets of VDNKh Pavilion No.1’

On the right side of the October Revolution Hall, there is another painting by Pavel Sokolov-Skalya. It is called ‘Lenin Proclaims Soviet Power at the 2nd Congress of the Soviets’. It also returned to its original spot. The painting shows factory workers listening intently to the Soviet leader. Some of them applaud, others look up in surprise, as if asking, ‘Could that all be true?’ Lenin is not in the centre of the painting, but everyone is looking at him. That was the painter’s way of showing that Lenin was indeed the main person there.

Lenin Proclaims Soviet Power at the 2nd Congress of the Soviets

Lenin Proclaims Soviet Power at the 2nd Congress of the Soviets

……

We move to the Stalin’s Constitution Hall made in pastel colors: cream and blue. It has a caisson-embossed dome with a gold star in the middle. The hall is dedicated to the happy future that revolutionaries were fighting for and that is already here.

Under the dome, along it circumference, the first lines of the Soviet anthem are written in gold: ‘United forever in friendship and labour, Our mighty republics will ever endure’. Below it are coats of arms of the 16 Soviet republics, including the Karelo-Finnish republic that still existed in 1950s.

There used to be painted panels depicting happy lives of Soviet citizens at the four sides of the hall. Only two of them survived. The first one, made by artists’ collective led by Alexander Gerasimov, shows students of all nationalities leaving Lomonosov Moscow State University (MSU) at Leninskiye (now Vorobyovy) Gory with books and briefcases and walking as if toward the audience, engaged in lively discussion among themselves. The high-rise University building was finished in 1953, one year before Pavilion No.1 opened to the public, and was instantly captured on the painting. It is like the people on it are alive and about to step down from the wall.

Moscow University

Moscow University

On the second panel by Sergey Otroshchenko smiling girls in colorful dresses and men in white linen or striped beach suits (fashionable at the time) are strolling along the Black Sea shore, among cypress trees and palaces with white colonnades.

On the Black Sea

On the Black Sea

The paintings explain the rights that Stalin’s Constitution of 1936 granted to Soviet citizens. It was considered the most progressive one in the world. It established rights to work, rest, education, etc.

Copies of the two panels that have been lost can be found on information displays. One of them, by Alexander Gerasimov, shows the launch of the Volga-Don canal: Soviet workers greet the first boat passing under the Triumph Arch surrounded by boundless fields that have to be tended and sowed. The other one, by Stepan Kirichenko, is called The Supreme Soviet Deputies in the Kremlin. On it, a crowd of men and women talk solemnly to each other while the background shows Ivan the Great’s bell tower and a Stalin era high-rise: symbols of the past and the present.

Next in our tour is the hall dedicated to Victory of the Soviet people in the Great Patriotic War and the struggle for peace. There, we come to a high-relief sculpture group made of gypsum and painted bronze: Glory to the Soviet People, Flag-Bearer of Peace! It was made by Evgeny Vuchetich and his team of sculptors. It was covered by a faux wall in the 1960s, and simply bricked over later.

Glory to the Standard Bearer of Peace

Glory to the Standard Bearer of Peace

So restoration architects got a surprise. Life-sized figures: workers, scientists, young pioneers, seem to descend to the audience from a Stalin-era high-rise building, a water power station, the Shukhov tower, main landmarks of that time.

When they found it, sculptures were in a sad state, many pieces had been damaged. They had to be recreated based on old photographs. We think now that those characters were modelled after real people. For instance, the Uzbek man on the right, wearing a national robe and a skullcap is Nazarali Niyazov, Hero of Socialist Labour. He invented a new cotton field irrigation method. Vuchetich had made a chest-high sculpture of him before the high relief project commenced and later used that as a base for a full-height sculpture.

This version of the sculpture is different from the one created in 1954. Back then, there used to be portraits of Lenin, Stalin, Marx and Engels on the flag; after the de-Stalinization, however, only Lenin’s profile was left. The man and the woman up front used to hold the USSR coat of arms which was later replaced by a baby holding a dove, the symbol of peace. Specialists decided to restore the later variant.

……

In the hall known as Collective Farms, Soviet Farms — MTS, restoration artists were able to uncover a painting niche framed in creamy-white bas-reliefs: cabbages, corncobs, apples, bunches of grapes, apricots, other vegetables and fruits around the edges with cows, horses and sheep in the middle and farming machinery on top. Such bas-reliefs, probably used to decorate other walls as well, but were lost.

Dairy and Meat Farming in the USSR, a painting by Boris Shcherbakov, returned to that room after being restored. The oil-on-canvas painting depicts a herd of cattle grazing by the river, surrounded by milkmaids and farmers, barns and power lines. On top of it, there is now a recreated slogan that used to be there in 1958: ‘We will catch up to the USA in per capita production of meat, milk and butter in the coming years’.

Dairy and Meat Farming in the USSR

Dairy and Meat Farming in the USSR

Shcherbakov painted it for the Tsentralny Pavilion, but it was moved to the Equestrian Manege Pavilion in the 1960s’.

There is another farming-themed panel by unknown painter on the wall there. It is a map of the USSR machine and tractor stations (MTSs) with landscapes, fields and combine harvesters in the corners.

Machine and tractor station

Machine and tractor station

The map was later replaced with a more modern electronic one where lights were going on.

The electronic parts of the map were lost, so they just left the outline of the USSR on the panel.

The initial plan was to put the giant painting by Alexander Gerasimov, called ‘Stalin Pronounces the Union-Wide Agricultural Exhibition Open at the 2nd Congress of Kolkhoz Workers and Exceptional Employees’, up there. The painting is currently being restored.

That painting is important for our history. The Union-Wide Agricultural Exhibition was established after the Congress, in 1939, and new pavilions were built. But the audience has never seen the painting because it was removed right after Stalin’s death, before the pavilion opened. People believed it was lost. But in 2014, it was discovered in the basement, wrapped around a roller. Now it is undergoing a restoration’

Location;

In the Exhibition of Achievements of National Economy (VDNKh)

GPS;

55.82895 N

37.63349 E

How to get there;

The easiest way to get to the park is via the Metro, to the VDNKh station on Line 6. The Central Pavilion is the highest structure in the park and is the first (permanent) building you see once you walk through the main arch.

Cost;

500 roubles

More on the USSR

The interior of the Central Pavilion

‘Glory to the standard bearer of peace’

VI Lenin Exhibition at the State History Museum – Moscow

To the Citizens of Russia

To the Citizens of Russia

More on the USSR

VI Lenin – Collected Works

VI Lenin Exhibition at the State History Museum, Moscow

At the moment there’s a special exhibition attached to State History Museum, one which documents some of the life and work of VI Lenin. Although there’s only a fraction on display here of what used to be on show in the now closed Central Lenin Museum (which used to be housed in what is now the War of 1812 Museum) this exhibition is still worth the visit. Unfortunately, you have to pay the high admission price to enter the State Historical Museum – which, after the pre-historic exhibits is basically a glorification of Tsarism – to get to this exhibition, which is located on the third floor.

To get a better idea of what the Russian State did hold about Comrade Lenin have a look at the book, The Central Lenin Museum, produced in 1986.

What to look out for – amongst other things:

  • a porthole and sailor’s tally from the Cruiser Aurora;
  • the cap that (the clean shaven) Lenin wore when he was on an island in Finland before his return to Petrograd to lead the October Revolution;
  • the original poster of ‘Comrade Lenin cleanses the world of evil spirits’;
  • Lenin’s Rolls Royce – on the ground floor right where tickets are checked and possible to miss;
  • the painting of the Central Committee meeting which made the decision to go for everything and to make a Proletarian Revolution and not just a bourgeois change of guard – with a disinterested Trotsky skulking on the extreme right hand side;
  • the painting of the assassination attempt on Lenin’s life on 30th August 1918;
  • the gun that was used in the assassination attempt;
  • the light bulb whose filament is a profile of Lenin’s head;
  • Lenin’s death mask;
  • early Lenin badges;
  • early Soviet coinage and bank notes;
  • the first symbol of the Soviet Union – a hammer and a plough – before the adoption of the Hammer and Sickle;
  • the felt hat used by the first Red Army soldiers.

Duration of the Exhibition;

The Exhibition will be in the Historical Museum until 18 August 2025. It is located on the 3rd Floor, separate from the general displays and entrance is by way of the same ticket that gets you into the general museum.

Location;

Revolution Square

GPS;

55.75546 N

37.61771 E

How to get there;

Right in the historic centre of Moscow, at the opposite end of Red Square to the St Basil’s Cathedral, right behind the equestrian statue of Marshal Zhukov.

Cost;

2000 roubles

More on the USSR

VI Lenin – Collected Works