Petru Costin Gallery – Ialoveni – Moldova

Petru Costin Gallery - Ialoveni

Petru Costin Gallery – Ialoveni

Petru Costin Gallery – Ialoveni – Moldova

This gallery in a small town just on the edge of Chișinău (full official name Galeria colecțiilor Petru Costin a consiliului raional Ialoveni) is a strange place.

Housed in what was a school for special needs children before the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1991 this four story ‘museum’ is certainly unique. Petru Costin was a Romanian Customs Official and hoarder. He collected anything and everything from Moldova during the Socialist period – together with some earlier religious works.

It’s not really curated in the sense you would expect in a ‘normal’ museum which makes visiting some of the rooms overwhelming. There’s little in the way of description of most of the articles and missing dates on some items makes if difficult to recognise any development in the technology, for example, in the electrical equipment rooms.

Although there are items related to the decoration and propaganda produced in the Soviet Union, for example, many hundreds of enamel badges in one of the first floor rooms – but surprisingly no badges of VI Lenin (unless I missed them in the general chaos) – those especially interested in such material have to wait until you are taken to the very last room on the ground floor.

This would have originally have been the school’s assembly hall and is the largest single room in the building. It’s packed with statues, busts, paintings, banners, pendants and general ‘memorabilia’ from the Soviet era. Although there has been some element of organisation of the material there is so much, and so little space, that the curator just seems to have eventually given up.

That’s a shame. We know that all museums have much more material than they have on public display (I read recently an article where the V and A Museum in London is trying to make more of its collection ‘in storage’ available to the general public) but the decision in this gallery is to make everything available on show – even if it means it’s difficult to properly see and appreciate what’s there. I suppose the only solution would be more space – but that would provide its own problems.

Most museums have so much to see that you end up missing some of the most interesting items – not seeing the wood for the trees. And that’s even more the case here.

I didn’t even make a start on counting the images of VI Lenin, both in statuary and in other forms. JV Stalin makes a number of appearances followed, in number, by images of FE Dzerzhinsky, I understand both Lenin and Stalin and I can appreciate the role ‘Iron Felix’ played in the early defence of the Revolution but I have never been able to work out exactly why (amongst some of the other important Bolshevik leaders of the 1920s and 30s) he seemed to be so respected by so many of the Soviet population – even into the Revisionist period.

The slide show below aims to pick out some detail from the chaos – perhaps a second visit might be warranted to discover what I might have missed the first time.

Location;

Strada Stefan cel Mare 4, Ialoveni

Telephone;

373 (0)69294556

GPS;

46.95136 N

28.78376 E

How to get there;

Trolleybus No 36 (destination Ialoveni) heading south-east down Boulevard Stefan cel Mare in Chișinău will take you within a few minutes walk of the gallery. Get off just before the roundabout at the bottom of the very long hill. Be careful if you return to Chișinău on the no. 36. The second half of the return route is completely different from the outward and you end up close to the Triumphal Arch by the back way.

Cost is 10 leu (6 leu for Chișinău and 4 leu for Ialoveni).

The matrushka No. 35, from the Central Bus Station, will also take you there.

Website – in Romanian only;

A companion piece to the internal gallery (and well worth the effort of visiting) is the Petru Costin Open Air Museum (see the separate page on this blog for what is on display there) but this is not easy if you are dependent on public transport. One of the best options is to talk to (the English speaking) Natalia at the Gallery. She can arrange for one of the local volunteers (or a local taxi driver) to take you there, wait whilst you walk around the site and bring you back to Ialoveni. Cost around 400 leu/€20.

VI Lenin in Tiraspol – Pridnestrovie

VI Lenin at Transnistrian Government Building, Tiraspol

VI Lenin at Transnistrian Government Building, Tiraspol

VI Lenin in Tiraspol, Pridnestrovie

There are two extant images of VI Lenin in Tiraspol, the capital city of Pridnestrovie (Transnistria).

At the Transnistria Parliament Building

The first Soviet leader just seems to emerge from the tall, red, granite column on which he stands. His coat resembling the workers red flag, caught by the wind streaming out behind him.

This statue is modelled on a statue, by the same artist – Nikolai Tomsky – which used to stand in what was Leninplatz in East Berlin. The original statue was erected in 1970 but the one in Tiraspol wasn’t inaugurated until 1987. The one in Berlin was on a lower plinth and had a large panel behind VI Lenin so there wasn’t the same impression of him almost flying. The one in the German location was removed in 1992.

The list of the artists involved in the project are attached to a small plaque at the back of the statues plinth.

Nikolai Tomsky was also involved in the bas reliefs that decorate the ceiling of the Novokuznetskaya Metro station in Moscow. He also created the bust over the grave of JV Stalin which was installed when the body of the second Soviet leader was removed from the Lenin Mausoleum in October 1961.

Location;

In front of the building of the Supreme Council of the Pridnestrovian Moldavian Republic (Transnistria Parliament) at 25th October Street 45

GPS;

46.83632 N

29.60651 E

VI Lenin at Tiraspol City Hall

VI Lenin at Tiraspol City Hall

At the Tiraspol City Hall

Unfortunately, there’s not a great deal of available information about this monument to VI Lenin. As far as I can learn the sculptor was G. Solominov but, so far, I have been unable to find any more information about him. There’s also no information of the year it was installed. I would guess the 1980s – as this seemed to be a time when there was a major impetus to install statues of the first Soviet leader as the revisionist leaders of that time – just before the collapse of the Soviet Union – were panicking and trying to establish their legitimacy.

It’s quite a unique representation of VI Lenin. It’s only a larger than life sized bust but he is depicted as wearing an overcoat with a huge collar – something I’ve never seen in photographs of him during his life time.

Location;

In front of the Tiraspol City Hall at 25th October Street, 101

GPS;

48.83701 N

29.62812 E

VI Lenin, Karl Marx and Georgi Dimitrov – Chișinău, Moldova

Karl Marx, VI Lenin and Georgi Dimitrov in Chisinau, Moldova

Karl Marx, VI Lenin and Georgi Dimitrov in Chisinau, Moldova

VI Lenin, Karl Marx and Georgi Dimitrov – Chișinău, Moldova

The new location of the Lenin statue is much more pleasant than its original location in the centre of town (in front of the Government building, I understand), having to endure the noise and pollution from the traffic. Now he stands in the park beside quite a large lake, used for boating, to the west of the city centre. However, in his new location Vladimir Iliych isn’t alone. On his right hand side is a large bust of Georgi Dimitrov (the Bulgarian Communist leader, defiant defendant against the Nazis over the accusation of being involved in the Reichstag fire of February 27th 1933 and General Secretary of the Communist International) and on his left Karl Marx (the founder, with Frederick Engels, of the revolutionary theory of the working class).

In translation this location is described as an ‘honour board’ or ‘hall of fame’ neither of which seem appropriate but I have been unable to come up with an alternative that sounds correct in English.

I have no idea where the the busts of Dimitrov and Marx came from but the whole group has been treated with respect and not having been dumped here as some afterthought. A formal, marble back drop, together with honorific laurel scrolls, had been created for the new location demonstrating that consideration and expense had been involved in the relocation.

Although the plinth on which VI Lenin stands bears his name there’s no indication of who his two companions are. Why that’s the case remains a mystery to me. I also don’t understand why the lettering is in Cyrillic and not also in Romanian.

Apart from a slight mark on Vladimir Ilyich’s groin, there’s no damage, as far as I can see, to any of the three statues. And the area is generally clean and shows signs of regular maintenance.

If you visit Comrades Lenin, Marx and Dimitrov be sure to have a look at the bas reliefs on either side of the main entrance to the building beside the ensemble. This is now an events venue – but which must have had a more official, governmental purpose in the past.

Location;

Strada Ghioceilor 1, Chișinău,

By the Moldexpo International Exhibitions Centre and at the edge of the Valea Morilor Lake

GPS:

47.01623 N

28.80492 E