Soviet-Georgian Friendship Monument – Kazbegi

Posted on 12/12/2024 by Michael

Soviet-Georgian Friendship Monument

Soviet-Georgian Friendship Monument – Kazbegi

The Soviet–Georgia Friendship Monument or Treaty of Georgievsk Monument is a monument built in 1983 to celebrate the bicentennial of the Treaty of Georgievsk and the ongoing friendship between Soviet Georgia and Soviet Russia. Located on the Georgian Military Highway between the ski resort town of Gudauri and the Jvari pass, the monument is a large round stone and concrete structure overlooking the Devil’s Valley in the Caucasus mountains. Inside the monument is a large tile mural that spans the whole circumference of the structure and depicts scenes of Georgian and Russian history.

Text above from Wikipedia.

The monument consists of a large round stone and concrete structure with 7 huge concrete columns that symbolize the seven centuries of friendship between the Georgian and Russian people.

The Soviet section, on the right as you look at the monument, is much easier to understand in its historical context (e.g., The October Revolution and the Great Patriotic War) than the images on the left about Georgia – unless you have an idea of more ancient Georgian history.

Completed;

1983

Architects;

Giorgi Chakhava

Artists;

Zurab Kapanadze, Nodar Malazonia and Zurab Lezhava

Location;

Just off the ‘military road’ (the road between Tbilisi and the border with Russia) about 2 kilometres north of the village of Gudauri on the way to Kazbegi.

Getting there;

Not an easy place to get to on public transport but marshutkas (minibuses) will get you there. They leave from the Didube bus station in Tbilisi. An early start would be recommended if you want to make the visit there and back in one day. Cost 15GEL each way.

GPS;

42.4920°N

44.4527°E

Vake Park, Tomb of the Unknown Warrior and the Mother of the Place – Tbilisi

Posted on 23/08/2024 by Michael

Vake Park – 01

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Vake Park, Tomb of the Unknown Warrior and the Mother of the Place, Tbilisi

The War Memorial in Vake Park, on the edge of Tbilisi centre, has gone through a process of evolution (and then regressed) over the years. However, it’s not easy to find definitive information of when and who.

The park, which might have existed before the Great Patriotic War, became Victory Park in 1946 and a war memorial installed. This would seem to have been a relatively simple affair, possible just a simple ground level marble slab covering the ‘Unknown Warrior’ in front of which was an eternal flame.

Although I’m not certain of the exact chronology it seems matters remained simple until the beginning of the 1980s. Between 1981 and 1985 there was a major construction project that; involved the building of the cascade and fountains in the hill behind the flame; the installation of the 18-meter bronze statue of the Mother of the Place at the very top of the monument; the installation of the eight (of what have now been called the) Georgian Warrior Heroes, guarding the tomb; then the installation of the statue above the tomb and the resitting of the eternal flame, this time with the flame emerging from a red marble star rather than just being an open flame.

All this happened in stages as is illustrated in a photograph from the period.

Tomb of Unknown Warrior and Eternal Flame before 1981

The sculptor of the Mother of the Place and the eight Warriors were created as a package and are the work of Gogi Ochiauri. To me the ‘warriors’ seemed out of place in this park and, although many years later, someone else agreed as in 2009 they were moved and now are installed in a small garden just below the fortress in the town of Gori (the town of Stalin’s birth and the location of the Stalin Museum).

Vake Park – 03

As far as I understand the architects of the reconstruction were; V. Aleksi-Meskhishvili, O. Litanishvili, K. Nakhutsrishvili.

Zurab Tsereteli is also listed as being involved. He was a sculptor and artist who specialised in mosaics – he was responsible for, among others, the Russian-Georgian Friendship Monument at Gudauri, off the ‘military road’ from Tbilisi to the Russian border – so it’s likely he was responsible for the decoration of the fountains and cascade, the line of Georgian red and white flags at the rear of the lower pond and the numbers 1941 and 1945 – the years between which it took to defeat the Nazi hoard.

The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier (Georgian: უცნობი ჯარისკაცის საფლავი) commemorates the hundreds of thousands of Georgian soldiers who served and died in the Red Army during the Great Patriotic War. It’s possible the creator of this monumental sculpture was Nikola Nikolov. The monument was opened officially by Soviet General Secretary Leonid Brezhnev and First Secretary of the Communist Party of the Georgian SSR Eduard Shevardnadze, as part of the diamond jubilee of the republic in 1981.

Vake Park – 02

The monument used to be guarded by a ceremonial guard from the National Guard of Georgia, changing every hour in a formal ceremony, as is/was the case in many such locations throughout the Soviet Union. However, this has ceased since elements in Georgia started to court the ‘West’.

Whether the ‘eternal’ flame is ever lit now I can’t say. It’s possible it might be in operation when Georgian veterans of war and residents of the capital gather at the tomb to commemorate holidays such as Victory Day (9th May). As for the fountains those lower down might be functioning but I have my doubts of those above the level of the tomb.

This area has been neglected for years. The area around the Tomb of the Unknown Warrior is still kept tidy(ish) but the waterfalls that were created by water cascading from just below the statue of the Mother of the Place high up the hill are now little more than ruins. The steps on either side of the cascades are now no longer easy to negotiate by soil brought down by the rains as there is no longer any regular maintenance.

Location;

76 Ilia Chavchavadze Avenue

GPS;

41°42′30″N

44°45′5″E

More on the Republic of Georgia

Murals by Bodorna Hydroelectric Plant, Tbilisi, Georgia

Posted on 16/08/2024 by Michael

Bodorna mural – linemen

More on the Republic of Georgia

Murals by Bodorna Hydroelectric Plant, Tbilisi, Georgia

Try as I might I have been unable to find out any information whatsoever about these murals. They are certainly from Georgia’s Socialist period but why they are where they are is difficult to tell.

The art work consists of a number of panels (ten of which it is possible to get a good view but a couple which have impenetrable undergrowth preventing a close examination) depicting variolous aspects of life in the Socialist Republic of Georgia.

The wall is at the entrance of a hydroelectric plant and one of the panels depicts workers from such a plant so that would seem to be able to give a rough origin date. However, all the information I’ve been able to find is about the plant that was completed in 2018. So whether this means there existed a much smaller one in the past and it was replaced I don’t know. Considering the other images in the murals the specificity of electrical linemen must be relevant to the location.

My speculation is that there was some sort of community centre, sports ground, that was built next to the reservoir. A some time in the relatively recent past the reservoir has been expanded and whatever was there before has been sacrificed. Now all that remains of that centre is the wall that is now being ‘lost’ to the undergrowth.

Bodorna mural – harvest celebration

No idea of the sculptor, although s/he follows the very distinctive Georgian style as can be seen in the mural on the wall of the old telephone exchange in Tskaltubo; the mural of the War Memorial in Gori and even in the Mother of Georgia statue in the hills above old Tbilisi.

So what’s on the panels? All of the panels which it is possible to see clearly follow a similar format. Apart from one panel all of them have four people involved in various activities and, as far as I could make out, all the individuals are distinct, i.e., there’s no repetition of any figure in another panel. And they generally tell a story of everyday life in (mainly) rural Georgia between the Great Patriotic War and the collapse of the Soviet Union at the beginning of the 1990s.

As seems to be a distinctive Georgian style of the period the tableau is made of of blocks of stone which, I think, gives the figures a ‘puppet’ look. In general they seem to be in a good condition – considering that no one, I’m sure, takes any real care of the art work. However, there are a few circumstances where a block is missing, mainly of a few of the faces. Whether general wear and tear or a conscious political ‘statement’ it’s impossible to tell. There’s a little bit of mindless vandalism but considering the isolation of the site surprisingly little.

Bodorna mural – female construction worker

The panels;

four male electrical linemen, working to distribute the power generated from the hydroelectric plant to the surrounding communities. There’s an image of a dam releasing its water in the background;
a group representing the arts, painting, music, theatre and performance. Here there are two men and two women;
an image of construction workers. A metal beam is being lowered above them. The four are all wearing hard hats and one of them is a woman;
a family group consisting of the parents on either side of a toddler, holding and supporting him. Unfortunately the baby has lost its head. Behind that group there are two older children playing a ball game. Interestingly, in the top left hand corner of the panel is an image of an old man holding a model of a house, there’s also a plant growing in the bottom tight hand corner. This is depicted as being something on the wall of their home and, I’m assuming, he represents one of the ancient, mythological deities from Caucasian folklore, one of those who protects the home – although I haven’t been able to identify exactly which guardian angel;

Bodorna mural – protector of the home

a group representing science, physics and chemistry. Here there are three men and a woman. There’s a globe on the ground, scientific symbols in the background and on the left is a man in a space suit (one Georgian cosmonaut went into space as part of the Soviet space programme);
a group of agricultural workers bring in the grape harvest. It should be remembered that wine is supposed to have been invented in Georgia. In the left background there’s a huge, flaming sun. Two of the faces of the figures are missing;
a group of four shepherds – with two of their sheep;
four agricultural workers, two men and two women, who seem to be celebrating the harvest. The man and the woman on the left both hold scythes. A man is playing a stringed instrument that could be either a chonguri or a panduri (a four and three stringed long-neck lute) and the woman on the right is holding a bunch of flowers above her head. Doves fly around in the background;
a group of male and female dancers, partially obscured by the encroaching vegetation;
a group of four male footballers.

Not sure how many other panels there might be as access was impossible due to the shrubbery, but only a couple, I think.

An interesting little sculpture gallery – and basically in the middle of nowhere.

Mother of Georgia – Kartlis Deda – Tbilisi

Telephone exchange mural – Tskaltubo

Location;

Off the eastern side of the ‘military road’ that runs from Tbilisi towards the Russian border near Kazbegi, close to the village of Bodorna and at the entrance to the Bodorna Hydroelectric Plant.