Central Museum of the Armed Forces of the USSR/Central Armed Forces Museum – Moscow

Glory to the Soviet Union!

Glory to the Soviet Union!

Central Museum of the Armed Forces of the USSR/Central Armed Forces Museum – Moscow

The main reason I wanted to go to the Central Museum of the Armed Forces of the USSR/Central Armed Forces Museum in Moscow was because I had learnt that it was there that the Nazi banners that had been thrown into the mud at the base of the Lenin Mausoleum (with Comrade Stalin accepting them on behalf of the Soviet people) on the first Victory Day on May 9th, 1945, were presently on display.

On my first visit to Moscow (way back in 1972) these banners were in a huge glass case which covered the whole floor of a room in what was then the Museum of the Revolution. This was up by Pushkin Square and close to the Izvestia offices. However, following the collapse of the Soviet Union and the chaos that followed in the 1990s anything which smacked of revolution was a no-no and that particular museum went through a number of manifestations. In the process much that had been on display pre-1990 disappeared and it is only relatively recently that some of it has begun to be, yet again, on display to the general public.

(What used to be the Museum of the Revolution is now called the Museum of the Modern History of Russia – Muzey Sovremennoy Istorii Rossii. Although there are some interesting and valuable artefacts which help in the telling of the history of the Soviet Union following the October Revolution it is generally a poor shadow of what it once was. The final section, ‘bringing things up to date’, is more like something you’d expect at an international exhibition than a museum.)

However, I think the Central Museum of the Armed Forces of the USSR/Central Armed Forces Museum has much more to offer than just the Nazi banners on the floor. There is a manner in which to display objects to show utter contempt for what they represent. From my memory that was achieved in the original location in the centre of the city but there’s less of that impression (to my mind) in their present location, even though they are still displayed in cases on the floor.

From my experience Russian museums are crammed full of artefacts. Sometimes so many that very soon you feel assaulted by so many different objects. That being the case the best approach is to ‘skim’ what you pass, taking more time on anything, perhaps more unusual, that might catch your eye.

The starting point in the first room is the War of Intervention or the Civil War. This was when the Red Army was formed, first out of Bolsheviks and irregulars who volunteered to defend the Revolution from the reactionaries, both national and international. However, within a very short time this army took on the aspects of a fully organised and structured army which eventually was able to defeat all attempts to strangle the Revolution from birth.

Later rooms go through the events of the Great Patriotic War and into later, sometimes not well chosen wars (such as that in Afghanistan) and through to the present with a small room dedicated to the Special Military Operation in the Ukraine.

In the slide show at the end of this post you will see that I have concentrated on the various banners and standards under which those fighting to defend the Revolution fought, as well as artistic representations of those battles and achievements. There’s a limited depiction of military hardware as, with a few exceptions, these are more or less generic and were used by all fighting forces in any particular epoch or conflict. I find what is unique to the Soviet Union (the way it presented itself; the battle of ideas through posters and other types of propaganda; and how the struggles were presented to the masses to be much more interesting.

In any visit to the museum here are a few suggestions of what to look out for;

  • the large bust of VI Lenin at the top of the stairs immediately facing the main entrance;
  • the whole wall covering mosaic on the wall on the first floor landing – depicting on the right the struggle to maintain the Revolution during the civil war into the 1920s and on the other the Great Patriotic War and the defeat of German invading Nazism;
  • the large painting in the second room (on the left had side on entering the room) which depicts the members of the Central Committee of the Bolshevik Party at the time of the October Revolution. This is an unusual way to present the individuals who were the leading cadres of the Revolution. I foolishly didn’t take note of the artist or when the painting was created but note Trotsky skulking at the extreme left hand side;
  • the many banners, representing factories and places of work, of the volunteers who went to fight against the Whites and the fourteen, intervening imperialist powers;
  • the propaganda posters produced by both sides in the conflict;
  • the machine gun fitted to the back of a horse drawn buggy;
  • the various sculptures demonstrating the unity of the workers and the peasants;
  • the make-shift armoured vehicles;
  • the multi-ethnic and multi-national extent of the revolutionary forces;
  • the distinctive uniform of the first Red Army;
  • the ceramic vase with an image of Joseph Stalin, Mikhail Frunze and other civil war military commanders;
  • the huge, wooden fist with the words ‘пролстарский кулак врагм ссср’ which translates as ‘the proletarian kulak is an enemy of the USSR’;
  • the images of VI Lenin and JV Stalin on the banners of the Great Patriotic War;
  • the porcelain statue of an embrace and a kiss;
  • images of heroism;
  • ‘the battle in the rear’;
  • the Nazi standards on the floor in the Victory Room;
  • the Iron Crosses;
  • the shattered eagle that used to stand on top of the Reichstag in Berlin;
  • Hitler’s personal standard;
  • the image of Marshal Zhukov riding his horse over the Nazi standards in Red Square on May 9th 1945;
  • the fine bust of JV Stalin, together with his military dress uniform;
  • the shattered remains of the U2 American spy plane;
  • the Red Army and and women flanking the main entrance to the museum;

among much more.

Location;

Soviet Army Street, Moscow

GPS;

55.78503 N

36.61708 E

How to get there;

The museum is a little over a five minute walk from the Dostoyevskaya Metro station on the Line 10 (Green). Leave by the exit that leads to the Red Army Theatre. Go past the right hand side of the theatre and at the road junction/pedestrian crossing take the right, once on the other side go left and the museum is about 100 metres on the right.

VI Lenin in Karakol – Kyrgyzstan

VI Lenin in Karakol, Kyrgyzstan

VI Lenin in Karakol, Kyrgyzstan

VI Lenin in Karakol – Kyrgyzstan

The only remaining statue of VI Lenin in Karakol, a town on the southern shore of Lake Issyk Kul in eastern Kyrgyzstan, is one that stands facing the large, open square between the University building and the public park in the centre of the town.

Although Comrade Lenin looks down on the square where, in the Soviet past, there would have been various parades and celebrations, and was therefore placed in a ‘suitable’ location, the proportions make the statue look somewhat out of place.

The statue of VI Lenin is life size yet he has been placed on a very tall pillar making him look somewhat lost so high up. The fact that he is located at the end of an avenue across the road from the square further distances him from any events that would have taken place there – a square which itself stretches into the distance.

Further, the statue has suffered the ‘golden treatment’, having been given a coat of gold paint. As I see more of this treatment of Lenin statues I’m starting to wonder if this treatment is a sign of respect or just the reverse. I still haven’t been to decide which not having seen what the original was like, pre-1990 and the so-called ‘independence’ of Kyrgyzstan. That conclusion has been made more difficult due to the fact that (in the summer of 2025) statues of Lenin are being removed in Kyrgyzstan at an increasing rate.

Location;

On the corner of Gebze Street and Tynystanova Street.

GPS;

42.49161 N

78.40014 E

VI Lenin and friends in Family Park – Almaty – Kazakhstan

VI Lenin - with friends

VI Lenin – with friends

VI Lenin and friends in Family Park – Almaty – Kazakhstan

When the capitalist authorities of Almaty decided to relegate the monuments of Socialism to the sidelines they didn’t do as they did in Moscow – where a part of a park by the river was set aside for the Muzeon Art Park – or in Sofia – where the Museum of Socialist Art was established. No, the Kazakhs decided to use the space behind a popular cinema in the city’s biggest public park.

VI Lenin

VI Lenin

VI Lenin

This is one of the bigger remaining examples of Lenin statues. It bears some similarity with that which is in the small, narrow park behind the Semey Hotel in Semiplatinsk, to the north east of Almaty. There’s a similarity in size and also in the manner in which Vladimir Ilyich is presented. He is standing and is obviously in the course of giving a speech out in the open, in the winter – VI Lenin was renown for going to the workers and making his arguments at factory gates – as he is wearing a large overcoat over his suit. What is significantly different between the two statues is that in Almaty he has carelessly thrown his overcoat off his right shoulder and the edge of it is brushing against the ground. Also, this statue has been subjected to the ‘golden treatment’ and it is now this unnatural colour, not, I’m sure, as it was originally intended.

Maxim Gorky

Maxim Gorky

Maxim Gorky

There’s a very informal of the Soviet writer Maxim Gorky. He is depicted standing outside in the street; dressed in a suit and overcoat (which is open); with his right hand on his hip and his pork pie hat hanging down from his relaxed left arm. It’s as if he’s waiting to meet someone. Whilst waiting someone attacked him with silver paint.

Pavel Mikhailovich Vinogradov

Pavel Mikhailovich Vinogradov

Pavel Mikhailovich Vinogradov

Also in the group is someone of whom I had not heard before. Pavel Vinogradov was a Bolshevik before the outbreak of the First World War. He was eventually arrested for his revolutionary work and sent to the front but he survived that and after the revolution and civil war worked as a Commissar responsible for education in Tashkent. In March 1919 he was a delegate to the 8th Congress of the RCP(b). He later lived, and then died in Alma-Ata (the old name for Almaty) in 1932. His bust sits upon a stone plinth where information of his background is displayed.

Dmitry Andreyevich Furmanov

Dmitry Andreyevich Furmanov

Dmitry Andreyevich Furmanov

Furmanov was a writer, revolutionary and also took part in military campaigns in the Civil War. After the Revolution he worked in the propaganda department in the Yaroslavl District before heading off to take an active, fighting, part in the Civil War on the Turkestan Front. He died of meningitis in 1926. His most famous written work (which was translated into English in 1940) was a novel about Vasily Chapaev, a Red Army Commander in the Civil War. His image is depicted in the uniform as an officer in the Red Army with his ornate signature carved into the marble of the plinth.

Mikhail Frunze

Mikhail Frunze

Mikhail Frunze

Frunze was a revolutionary who rose to prominence in the struggle against the White reactionary (and imperialist supported) forces during the Russian Civil War, eventually becoming commander of the entire Eastern Front. He later was elected to the Central Committee of the Russian Communist Party and later to its Politburo. His influence in military matters was such that his name was given to the most respected Soviet Military Academy. He is depcited as if giving a speech at a podium, the marble plinth doubling as that podium. There’s a museum dedicated to Mikhail Frunze in the Kyrgyzstan capital, Bishkek.

Monument to the October Revolutionaries

Monument to the October Revolutionaries

Monument to the October Revolutionaries

This group sculpture was commissioned to celebrate the 50th Anniversary of the October Revolution in 1967 and was originally installed at the top end of the wide, tree-lined avenue that is Pushkin Street. (I don’t know when it was moved here.) It depicts revolutionaries of various ethnicities defending the Red Banner, demonstrating the multi-ethnic nature of the Socialist, October, Revolution.

Mikhail Kalinin

Mikhail Kalinin

Mikhail Kalinin

Facing VI Lenin, at the opposite end of the small avenue formed by young trees and wooden benches, stands a statue of Mikhail Kalinin. Kalinin was a long time Bolshevik, having been a Party member at the time of the 1905 Revolution. After the Revolution he became the first, titular Head of State, being Chairman of the Presidium of the Supreme Soviet of the Soviet Union, until his death in 1946.

There’s also a now empty platform but I have no idea what might have stood there.

How to get there;

The exit from Saryarka Metro station is right at the main entrance to the park. Go though the arch and keep to the right as you enter the park, passing the collection of military vehicles and the amusement park on your right. You’ll start to see the statues through the trees on your right hand side.

Location;

Located in a small spur of the northern edge of Family Park.

GPS;

43.227245 N

76.856266 E