Frunze Museum – Bishkek – Kyrgyzstan

Posted on 16/07/2025 by Michael

Frunze Museum – Bishkek

Frunze Museum – Bishkek – Kyrgyzstan

The Frunze museum was originally opened in December 1925, centred on the small house where he was born. This house is now a feature on the ground floor of the modern building.

The present building was constructed after the 50th Anniversary celebrations of the October Revolution in 1967. The murals that surround the exterior of the building were the work of Alexei Kamensky and Alexander Voronin. The murals depict events and personalities from the Civil War in which Mihkail Frunze played such an important role, especially in the Central Asia front, that part of the future Soviet Union from where he originated.

There are two exhibition floors (plus the family house on the ground floor). At the time of my visit in the summer of 2025 only the top (second floor) was open to the public. I have no idea why the first floor was closed or how long it will remain so.

The floor that is open tells the story of Frunze through photographs and documents, with an obvious emphasis on the period following the Revolution and the battle against the White (reactionary) Russian forces – assisted by the imperialist powers.

The sculptors of the large statue of Frunze at the end of the room were A Muhutdinov and V A Shestopal.

Although interesting for those who might know little about Frunze what is more impressive, I believe, and which is probably overlooked by many people who visit the museum, are the murals on the outside of the building. These include a profile image of Frunze just above the main entrance and scenes representing the Red Army in its struggle to defend the Revolution between 1918 and 1922. Unfortunately, in places the trees are starting to obscure some of the images but it is still possible to follow the story being presented.

Location;

364, Frunze Street, Biskek

GPS;

42.88068 N

74.60514 E

Entrance;

125 Kz Som (which has to be paid by card)

Opening;

Monday; closed

Tuesday-Friday; 10.00-17.00

Saturday and Sunday; 10.00-16.00

Aliya Moldagulova – in Aktobe – Kazakhstan

Posted on 26/06/2025 by Michael

Sniper – Aliya Moldagulova

Aliya Moldagulova – in Aktobe, Kazakhstan

Hero of the Soviet Union

I’d be very surprised if many of the people who fly into Aliya Moldagulova International Airport, in Aktobe, Kazakhstan are aware that the airport is named in honour of a young, female Soviet sniper, who was credited with killing dozens (I’ve seen various figures) Nazis in her short ‘career’ as a sniper before being killed herself. The airport was renamed in her honour on 28th April 2021 (which probably bears relationship to the time of the celebrations of May 9th, the final and ultimate victory over Nazi Germany).

Born in 1925 it appears her childhood was neither comfortable or stable. The suggestion that her father was some sort of ‘nobleman’ wouldn’t have helped as such a short time after the revolution many people would have still held resentments about the past society – whether those resentments and the targets were deserving or not. However, she was a true patriot and defender of the new social system and – like many hundreds of thousands of other young men and women – readily joined (aged less than 16) the Red Army following the German Nazi invasion in June 1941.

She eventually ended up in a sniper training school outside of Leningrad but her training, as far as I can see, only lasted about 8 months (from starting in the military until being assigned to the front) which seems a very short time for such a young person – even taking into account the seriousness of the situation.

She was sent to the front in August 1943 and she was dead In January 1944 – she never reached her 19th birthday. There are countess ways to condemn the futility of war – even one as existential as the Great Patriotic War – but the fact that a young woman’s life ‘achievement’ was the killing, and presumably wounding, of dozens of invading Nazis, many not much older than herself, and then to be killed after barely 5 months in battle, must be one of them.

However, all armies – not just the Soviet Red Army – paid homage to those who had gone that bit further in the fight against the enemy (whether they survived the conflict or not). These men and woman in the Red Army were designated ‘Heroes of the Soviet Union’ and even though the Soviet Union no longer exists you will see busts of those so awarded throughout the territory of the former Socialist country.

Aliya is among that group of celebrated individuals in an avenue of such busts alongside the avenue, in the newer part of Aktobe, which used to bear the name of VI Lenin.

Aliya Moldagulova – In Heroes Aisle

Aliya Moldagulova Memorial Park

The avenue of busts leads to what is now called Aliya Moldagulova Memorial Park. (I’m not sure if in this location previously stood a statue of VI Lenin. There are no statues of Lenin on public display in 2025.)

This complex was unveiled in 2005 on the occasion of the 80th anniversary of her birth, ‘intended to appeal to be proud for our country and it’s heroes (sic)’ – according to the official visitors site.

The backdrop to this complex follows very much a Soviet, Socialist Realist pattern. On the left hand side as you look at the statue, the panel represents Aktobe (and also Kazakhstan’s) past. It shows the fights for independence (against whom is not specified) including a female warrior – which sets up the scene for Aliya to be represented in the right hand panel. On this left hand side we also have the introduction of Kazakh culture in the form of a group of musicians playing traditional instruments.

The right hand panel, however, deals with a number of specifics. On the left edge is a group of soldiers from the Civil War period when the Bolsheviks defeated the White reactionary forces, assisted by the capitalist/imperialist powers. Only when the Bolsheviks had rid their country of these elements were they able to start on the construction of Socialism. Then we have industrialisation (with the construction of dams and providing electricity to the whole country) and the collectivisation of agriculture – both of which, somewhat surprisingly, are represented in a positive manner here.

This is followed by images from the Great Patriotic War and the incident that led to the death of Aliya in 1944. It then takes a step 20 years in to the future with the launch of the Vostok rocket which sent the first human’s into space – all the Soviet space programme was based in Baikonur, in western Kazakhstan. Finally, we are faced with images that are supposed to represent modern capitalist Kazakhstan – a veritable heaven on earth.

Although I have issues with the panels behind the statue it is the representation of Aliya I found the most offensive and insulting (to her and her memory). This follows the same pattern that happened in Albania with another young, female victim in the fight against German Nazism, Leri Gero. In both cases the capitalist elements in power have sought to appropriate the heroism of these young women from the past to substitute for their paucity of heroism in their present. In the process they distort the reality of these two (although from different countries) very similar young people according to the little we know of them. They were simple, honest and dedicated fighters for their people and their country – and for that they paid the ultimate price.

This representations of them during Socialism followed a well worn and ‘traditional’ path. A simple three dimensional image in their memory. However, the modern ‘representations’ turn both of them into silly airheads who only think of their own pleasure and vanity. Leri looks more like a young woman going clubbing at the weekend and Aliya like a fashion model who has just flung off the jacket of a haute couture ‘army’ suit at the end of a catwalk.

By stripping Aliya of any real reference to her medal they take away the reason she is in that location in the first place.

But then this is the tactic. If you cannot obliterate their achievements just try and trivialise them.

Aliya Moldagulova – memorial park in Nedw Town

In Aktobe new town;

Memorial Complex;

Aliya Moldagulova Avenue, close to the Museum

GPS;

50.287698 N

57.152472 E

Monument in the Old Town

This is a much more staid and formal representation of the young woman. It is a bust, about 1.3 metres mounted on a high stone stele – giving a combined height of 3 metres. It stands at the entrance to a small green and garden space that leads off Shimize Street – opposite No 39 – in the older part of Aktobe.

We have here a uncomplicated head and shoulders bust of a young woman in a basic and unadorned military shirt and with a military cap on her head. The only decoration is the Red Star on her cap and the medal of the Hero of the Soviet Union on her right chest.

The area around the monument is always kept neat and tidy and ceremonies in her remembrance, and of the Great Patriotic War in general, often take place in this small corner of the city.

This small monument has survived the somewhat turbulent times over the last 35 years or so which demonstrates the respect the people of the town (and the country) have for her – so many years after the end of the war. I would venture to guess that most people passing would know who she is, not something that could be said in many western countries to street sculptures commemorating individuals from the Second World War.

Aliya Moldagulova – in Aktobe Old Town

In Aktobe old town;

Location;

Shimize Street – opposite No 39

GPS;

50.1657 N

57.1336 E

Museum established in her honour;

Finally, in Aktobe, a small museum was established in the newer part of town and opened on 22nd April 1985. This also operates as a research centre.

Aliya Moldagulova – image in museum

Free entry.

Opening;

09.00-18.00, closed for lunch 13.00-14.00

Location:

Aliya Moldagulova Avenue 47

GPS;

50.28877 N

57.15818 E

Lenin Square – Stalingrad

Posted on 06/12/2024 by Michael

Lenin Square

Lenin Square – Stalingrad

Following the dissolution of the (Revisionist) Soviet Union at the end of 1991 many of the monuments to Socialist Heroes were removed. Some were ‘attacked’ and vandalised, some were later removed officially and put into some sort of storage. But this wasn’t the case everywhere. Often the names of streets were changed, but again, this wasn’t always the case. One of the cities where you can still find major monuments to the Socialist period and statues of Socialist leaders and heroes is the city of Stalingrad.

Running from the southern edge of the city centre, parallel to the River Volga, and going way past the Mamayev Kurgan and the Motherland Calls statue is Lenin Avenue. This arrives at Lenin Square which is opposite the House of Officers Cultural Centre and on the river side of the avenue. It is here you find a tall, stepped plinth, ending in a circular platform on which stands a twice life-size statue of VI Lenin.

The square is now called Lenin Square but whether that was the case before the statue was installed I have been, as yet, unable to find out. This statue was a relatively late addition, being inaugurated in 1960 on the occasion of the 90th anniversary of VI Lenin’s birth. It’s possible a not so impressive statue stood in that square before 1960.

VI Lenin Statue

Lenin Statue

Lenin is looking towards the city with his back to the River Volga. His right hand is outstretched and his left hand is clutching the lapel of his overcoat. Here we get the impression that Lenin is giving a speech out in the open, in the winter months. This is not an unusual stance for a statue of the first Bolshevik leader.

The statue itself looks in good condition however, the plinth itself is in need of some tender care and attention. Being in Stalingrad we have the extremes of weather which will take its toll on outside monuments and over time it seems water has gotten behind some of the marble slabs on the facade of the plinth and they are starting to come away from the concrete underneath. The Lenin installation has only one word at the base, on the front, which is the name of Lenin in Cyrillic (ЛЕНИН).

Sculptor;

Yevgeny Vucetich, who also created The Motherland Calls! at Mamayev Kurgan, the statue of ‘Iron Felix’ Dzerzhinsky, that used to stand in front of the Lubyanka Building in Central Moscow but which is now in Muzeon Art Park, as well as the statue ‘Let Us Beat Swords into Plowshares’, which stands outside the United Nations Building in New York and a copy of which is immediately outside the entrance to the New Tretyakov Gallery in Moscow.

‘Pavlov’s House’ Memorial Arch and Wall

‘Pavlov’s House’ Mural

However, Lenin Square is quite a large space and it includes other elements of Socialist history and examples of Socialist art. Behind the statue of Lenin is a memorial arch which forms the rear of what is known in Stalingrad as ‘Pavlov’s House’. ‘Pavlov’s House’ became a symbol of the resistance of ordinary soldiers against the Nazi invasion where Sergeant Pavlov, with a small group of men, held out for 58 days. Being virtually surrounded by the invading fascists they survived by being supplied through tunnels constructed towards the river from where supplies arrived from across the Volga. This defiance became a symbol (and was promoted as such) of resistance to the Nazi fascist invasion.

As in all wars, in all countries, some form of resistance takes on an importance much greater than it might have been militarily. Almost certainly this small holdout against the invaders wasn’t the most important of the innumerable struggles in the city but it was indicative of the resistance of the Red Army and the people of Stalingrad to the invaders.

After the war most what remained of the building was demolished and a new apartment block constructed in its place. There’s now a small part, which faces towards the Stalingrad Panorama Museum, that remains as a monument to the affair. Again, at an unknown date to me, the memorial arch was constructed on the eastern edge of Lenin Square at the rear of the apartment complex.

The memorial arch is a collection of columns, surmounted by an entablature, in a concave formation which encompasses virtually the whole of the open space of Lenin Square. Exactly in the middle of the arrangement of columns, and directly behind the Lenin statue, is a wall that goes from ground level to the top of the columns.

On the top left of this wall there’s a huge, stylised depiction of the head of a Russian Red Army soldier, taking up more than a quarter of the available space. Next to this image, at the top right are the numbers and words (in Cyrillic);

58 ДНЕЙ В ОГНЕ

meaning;

58 days of fire (the time they were holding out against the invaders)

Underneath are images representing the story of the resistance in the building. On the left-hand side you have two soldiers, one kneeling and firing a very long-barrelled gun which is known as a PTRS 41 anti-tank rifle. This is something I never knew existed until I read the story about ‘Pavlov’s House’. It seems that from their vantage point on the top of the block of flats the Red Army soldiers were able to do quite serious damage to any tanks which tried to get close to the building. Even to this day battle tanks concentrate their armour on the surrounds of the vehicle leaving the turret as the weakest point. This Soviet made anti-tank rifle was very effective if it could be fired from a high point. The bullet would pierce the weak armour and then ricochet within the vehicle causing mayhem in the process.

Above this kneeling soldier is another who is about to swing a landmine down on the approaching tanks or Nazi soldiers. They didn’t have artillery as such so the mines were the most powerful armament they could use as a substitute. On the right-hand side there’s an image of four soldiers – two of them, who are standing one in front of the other, are firing heavy machine guns at the enemy. Behind them, lying on the ground, is an image of a wounded comrade. Standing, and dominating the whole of the group, is a soldier (in profile and facing to the right) holding a rifle by the barrel, vertically, in his right hand and his left arm outstretched in front of him towards the enemy. His mouth is open as he’s shouting for others to come and join the fight. This is a common representation in Socialist Realist art indicating moving forward and calling upon others to join the advance or the battle against the enemy. This can be seen, for example, in many of the Albanian lapidars.

Below the group of soldiers, at the bottom of the wall, there’s a list of the names of those soldiers who held out for the 58 days.

To the left of the wall, on the railings which constitute the majority of the lower part of the arch, there’s a large, cast iron wreath inside of which is the ceremonial five pointed star. In the centre of the star is the Hammer and Sickle – the symbol of the Soviet Union. Surrounding that are the words;

ОТЕУЕСТВЕННАЯ ВОИНА

meaning

Fatherland War

Emanating from both sides of the wreath are metal ribbons attached to the railings. So in place of a temporary wreath that would be placed at the memorial on significant dates we have one that is permanently in place.

Memorial to NKVD Soldiers

NKVD Memorial

In the square there’s also another, smaller memorial. This is to Lenin’s right and closer to the road and entrance to the Metro station. This is a small memorial garden, with decorated marble, which mark a mass grave and commemorates the soldiers of the 13th Guards Rifle Division and the 10th Division of the NKVD (Narodnyy komissariat vnutrennikh del, Народный комиссариат внутренних дел), the People’s Commissariat for Internal Affairs, who died in the battles for Stalingrad.

The inscription at the head of the memorial (which resembles a large individual grave you would find in a cemetery) reads;

ВЕЛИКИЕ ПОДВИГИ ВАШИ БЕССМЕРТНЫ

YOUR GREAT DEEDS ARE IMMORTAL

СЛАВА О ВАС ПЕРЕЖИВЕТ ВЕКА ПАМЯТЬ О ВАС НАВСЕГДА СОХРАНИТ РОДИНА

YOUR FAME WILL OUTLIVE THE AGES, YOUR MEMORY WILL BE PRESERVED FOREVER BY YOUR HOMELAND.

АВГУСТ 1942 – ЯНВАРЬ 1943

AUGUST 1942 – JANUARY 1943

I have been, unfortunately, unable to find out exactly why this specific memorial to those particular soldiers was created nor exactly when the memorial was installed.

Location;

Lenin Square (Ploshchad Lenina)

GPS;

48.7166934° N

44.5303396° E

DMS;

48°42′59.42″ N

44°31′49.29″ E

How to get there;

The entrance/exit of the Ploshchad Lenina Metro station is right at the square. Also any bus heading in the direction of Mamayev Kurgan, from the centre of town, passes by the square. The square is also on the way to the Stalingrad Panorama Museum, the Stalingrad Siege Museum.