Obelisk of Glory – Aktobe – Kazakhstan

Posted on 21/08/2025 by Michael

Obelisk of Glory – Aktobe – 01

Obelisk of Glory – Aktobe – Kazakhstan

Of all the post-Soviet countries in Western Asia Kazakhstan appears to be the one that still maintains a real connection to the Soviet past. This is reflected in the maintenance – and even existence – of those public statues and monuments that celebrated and commemorated Soviet achievements. Statues of VI Lenin might have been removed from certain locations but other monuments that remain are still treated with an element of respect. This respect reaches its peak, if you like, when it comes to commemoration of the Great Patriotic War.

One such monument is the Obelisk of Glory in Aktobe. This was inaugurated in August 1970 in honour of the people from the region who died for their homeland during the Great Patriotic War (what the ‘West’ calls the Second World War). The monument is now located in the central part of the new city of Aktobe on Aliya Moldagulova Avenue.

Obelisk of Glory – Aktobe – original location

However, this is not its original location. It once stood in front of the House of the Soviets on Oktyabrsky Boulevard (now renamed Abai Avenue) but was moved to its present location in 1984 when a statue of VI Lenin (since removed) was erected on its site.

Major changes were made to the monument – not to the principal column but the surrounds – in its present location but I’m not exactly sure when. From the information I’ve been able to gather it was more likely in 2015 in preparation for the celebration of the 70th anniversary of the victory over fascism. Something like 160 tons of granite, from the Kurdai deposit in the Almaty region, were brought to Aktobe to construct the wall and the curbs in the area you can see now.

The principal element of the monument is a tall, 18 metre, obelisk into which is incorporated an image of a Red Armyman. He is depicted wearing an overcoat that was more appropriate to the Civil War/War Intervention in the immediate years following the October Revolution as many of important battles against foreign supported reaction took place in western Asia. On a monument that is ostensibly to commemorate the war of 1941 to 1945 the inclusion of an anachronistic element such as the overcoat could be to draw a parallel between the two conflicts – both of which were existential to the Soviet Union.

He wears a Budenovka hat with the clear outline of a star and his right hand is raised high above his head in which he holds a sword; his left hand is clenched into a fist. (This is very reminiscent of the soldier on the top of the pillar at the Monument to the Fallen of the NKVD in Stalingrad.) There’s an Eternal Flame burning to the right of the monument. This is unusual as in many locations, were there’s evidence of the presence of an Eternal Flame, the fire has long been allowed to go out. It is reported that the torch for the lighting of this flame came from the Field of Mars in Leningrad – I assume in 1970 when the monument was in its original location.

The architect was T. Dzhanibekov and the sculptor N. Sobolev. However, I’m not sure how much involvement either of them had in the remodelling that took place since its original inauguration.

Obelisk of Glory – Aktobe – 02

The monument is the centre of commemorations annually on May 9th (Victory Day in the Soviet Union and has become more important in recent years in the Russian Federation) and, as in many locations in the post-Soviet Union where the fire still burns at an Eternal Flame, brides and bridegrooms visit the monument on their wedding day.

The modern monument to Aliya Moldagulova is along the same avenue, about a kilometre to the south west, and the museum in her honour is across the road, on the left, just before the memorial complex

Location;

Aliya Moldagulova Avenue/Eset Batyr Street

GPS;

50.293201 N

57.169999 E

DMS;

50°17’35” N

57°10’11” E

More on the USSR

Monument to the Fallen of the NKVD in the Battle for Stalingrad

Posted on 16/08/2025 by Michael

Monument to the Fallen of the NKVD in the Battle for Stalingrad

More on the USSR

Monument to the Fallen of the NKVD in the Battle for Stalingrad

‘It is impossible to overestimate the importance of the NKVD troops during the war. They became an indestructible shield that protected our country. It was with their help that it was possible to stop the retreating army, overcome the demoralized state of a number of army units, protect the country from the invasion of enemy saboteurs and bandits with personal participation, organize a powerful partisan movement behind enemy lines, stop the enemy’s armed forces in the most important strategic directions, such as Moscow, the Caucasus , Stalingrad.’

[Introductory paragraph from ‘Pages of the history of the internal affairs bodies: the feat of the 10th division of the NKVD’

At the southern end of Stalingrad city centre there’s a small park which hosts an impressive monument to those members of the NKVD who fought and died in the Battle of Stalingrad. Even if you don’t know immediately who is commemorated by the monument if you know the name of the square you are given a clue by it’s name. The location of the park is known as Chekist Square – the colloquial name of the security organisation, established soon after the October Revolution in 1917, was the Cheka and even though the official name changed a number of times over the years the ‘nickname’ persisted.

The number of troops involved involved in NKVD formations were obviously many more than would have existed in peace time and these divisions became much more ideological – formed by those Communists who were fighting for much more than the liberation of their country from the Nazi invaders but for the international cause of Socialism. They were sent to some of the fiercest fighting and consequently suffered some of the heaviest losses and played a much more prominent role in various battlefronts than their numbers would suggest. Although the formation of such fighting forces had its positives the negative consequence of this was that after the victory of the Red Army over the fascist invader the forces of committed Communists was weakened – a consequence of which was felt in the Soviet Union after the death of JV Stalin in 1953.

The Monument

The monument consists of a pillar on top of which stands a uniformed soldier with his right arm raised high above his head and in his hand he is holding a sword. In November 1932 JV Stalin sent a message of congratulations to the then OGPU addressing them as ‘the bared sword of the working class’.

There’s a pentagon at the base of the pillar and on the five sides there’s;

a plaque (in Russian)

Чекистам, сотрудникам контрразведки Сталинградского фронта и военной полиции, погибшим при защите города от немецко-фашистских захватчиков с августа 1942 – февраль 1943 года

which translates as;

To the Chekists, to the counter-intelligence officers of the Stalingrad Front and the military police officers who died while defending the city from the Nazi invaders, August 1942 to February 1943;

a large, metal image of the symbol of the NKVD – which has the Hammer and Sickle superimposed on a vertical sword;

a large, metal image of the Medal for the Defence of Stalingrad;

another plaque (in Russian)

В СУРОВЫЙ ЧАС.

КОГДА ВРАГ ЧЕРНОЙ ТУЧЕЙ НАВЕС НАД СТАЛИНГРАДОМ,
МЫ КЛЯНЕМСЯ БЕСПОШАДНО УНИЧТОЖАТЬ НЕНАВИСТНОГО ВРАГА, ГДЕ БЫ ОН НЕ ПОЯВИЛСЯ.

МЫ ОБЕЩАЕМ, ЧТО В ТЯЖЕЛЫЙ МОМЕНТ НЕ ДРОГНЕМ ПЕРЕД ЛИЦОМ СМЕРТЕЛЬНОЙ УГРОЗЫ.

МЫ ПОКАЖЕМ СТОЙКОСТЬ, ВЫСОКУЮ ДИСЦИПЛИНУ, ВЫДЕРЖКУ.

МЫ ПОТОВЫ ЛЕЧЬ КОСТЬМИ, НО НЕ ДОПУСТИТЬ ВРАГА В СТАЛИНГРАД.

КЛЯНЕМСЯ ЧТО БУДЕМ ДОСТОЙНЫМИ СЫНАМИ СВОЕЙ РОДИНЫ!

КЛЯТВА БОЙЦОВ И КОМАНДИРОВ 10-ОЙ СТРеАКоВОЙ ВОйСК НКВА

which translates as;

In the fateful hour, when the enemy loomed over Stalingrad like a black cloud, we will never repent of relentlessly destroying the hated enemy no matter how he appears.

We promise that in difficult moments we will not flinch in the face of a deadly threat.

We will show resilience, high discipline and self control.

We would lay down our lives to prevent the enemy from entering Stalingrad.

We swear we will be worthy sons of our Homeland.

Oath of the soldiers and commanders of the 10th Infantry Division of the NKVD troops

and another emblem of the NKVD but this time with the addition of an honorific, a Star between the Hammer and Sickle and the Sword

The platform upon which all this stands has five sets of steps up to the pentagon. On two sides of the wall that flanks these steps are mirrored images of; three Soviet flags lowered as a sign of respect for the fallen, the Hammer and Sickle over which lies a sheaf of wheat and the corner is formed by a vertical sword, point at the top (similar to that in the hand of the NKVD soldier at the top of the column).

The monument is at the highest point in this small park and slightly away from the main road. There’s seating, much of it in the shade of the trees and appears to be a place where people come to rest from the hustle and bustle of the city and away from the heat in summer.

There’s another monument to the NKVD, this time over a grave of those killed in the battle, next to the statue of VI Lenin, in Lenin Square, just a couple of kilometres to the north of this monument, along the main road in the direction of Mamyev Kurgan.

Further information;

Division of the NKVD in the defense of Stalingrad. The feat of the NKVD division in the battle of Stalingrad. Participation of internal troops in interethnic conflicts

Location;

Chekistov Square and Park, located at the southern end of the Astrakhansky Bridge on the edge of the town centre.

GPS;

78.70155 N

44.50653 E

How to get there;

The Pionerskaya Metro station is on the other side of the Astrakhanskya Bridge. Also many buses pass over this bridge when heading south and west of Stalingrad city centre.

More on the USSR

Central Museum of the Armed Forces of the USSR/Central Armed Forces Museum – Moscow

Posted on 29/06/2025 by Michael

Glory to the Soviet Union!

Central Museum of the Armed Forces of the USSR/Central Armed Forces Museum – Moscow

The main reason I wanted to go to the Central Museum of the Armed Forces of the USSR/Central Armed Forces Museum in Moscow was because I had learnt that it was there that the Nazi banners that had been thrown into the mud at the base of the Lenin Mausoleum (with Comrade Stalin accepting them on behalf of the Soviet people) on the first Victory Day on May 9th, 1945, were presently on display.

On my first visit to Moscow (way back in 1972) these banners were in a huge glass case which covered the whole floor of a room in what was then the Museum of the Revolution. This was up by Pushkin Square and close to the Izvestia offices. However, following the collapse of the Soviet Union and the chaos that followed in the 1990s anything which smacked of revolution was a no-no and that particular museum went through a number of manifestations. In the process much that had been on display pre-1990 disappeared and it is only relatively recently that some of it has begun to be, yet again, on display to the general public.

(What used to be the Museum of the Revolution is now called the Museum of the Modern History of Russia – Muzey Sovremennoy Istorii Rossii. Although there are some interesting and valuable artefacts which help in the telling of the history of the Soviet Union following the October Revolution it is generally a poor shadow of what it once was. The final section, ‘bringing things up to date’, is more like something you’d expect at an international exhibition than a museum.)

However, I think the Central Museum of the Armed Forces of the USSR/Central Armed Forces Museum has much more to offer than just the Nazi banners on the floor. There is a manner in which to display objects to show utter contempt for what they represent. From my memory that was achieved in the original location in the centre of the city but there’s less of that impression (to my mind) in their present location, even though they are still displayed in cases on the floor.

From my experience Russian museums are crammed full of artefacts. Sometimes so many that very soon you feel assaulted by so many different objects. That being the case the best approach is to ‘skim’ what you pass, taking more time on anything, perhaps more unusual, that might catch your eye.

The starting point in the first room is the War of Intervention or the Civil War. This was when the Red Army was formed, first out of Bolsheviks and irregulars who volunteered to defend the Revolution from the reactionaries, both national and international. However, within a very short time this army took on the aspects of a fully organised and structured army which eventually was able to defeat all attempts to strangle the Revolution from birth.

Later rooms go through the events of the Great Patriotic War and into later, sometimes not well chosen wars (such as that in Afghanistan) and through to the present with a small room dedicated to the Special Military Operation in the Ukraine.

In the slide show at the end of this post you will see that I have concentrated on the various banners and standards under which those fighting to defend the Revolution fought, as well as artistic representations of those battles and achievements. There’s a limited depiction of military hardware as, with a few exceptions, these are more or less generic and were used by all fighting forces in any particular epoch or conflict. I find what is unique to the Soviet Union (the way it presented itself; the battle of ideas through posters and other types of propaganda; and how the struggles were presented to the masses to be much more interesting.

In any visit to the museum here are a few suggestions of what to look out for;

the large bust of VI Lenin at the top of the stairs immediately facing the main entrance;
the whole wall covering mosaic on the wall on the first floor landing – depicting on the right the struggle to maintain the Revolution during the civil war into the 1920s and on the other the Great Patriotic War and the defeat of German invading Nazism;
the large painting in the second room (on the left had side on entering the room) which depicts the members of the Central Committee of the Bolshevik Party at the time of the October Revolution. This is an unusual way to present the individuals who were the leading cadres of the Revolution. I foolishly didn’t take note of the artist or when the painting was created but note Trotsky skulking at the extreme left hand side;
the many banners, representing factories and places of work, of the volunteers who went to fight against the Whites and the fourteen, intervening imperialist powers;
the propaganda posters produced by both sides in the conflict;
the machine gun fitted to the back of a horse drawn buggy;
the various sculptures demonstrating the unity of the workers and the peasants;
the make-shift armoured vehicles;
the multi-ethnic and multi-national extent of the revolutionary forces;
the distinctive uniform of the first Red Army;
the ceramic vase with an image of Joseph Stalin, Mikhail Frunze and other civil war military commanders;
the huge, wooden fist with the words ‘пролстарский кулак врагм ссср’ which translates as ‘the proletarian kulak is an enemy of the USSR’;
the images of VI Lenin and JV Stalin on the banners of the Great Patriotic War;
the porcelain statue of an embrace and a kiss;
images of heroism;
‘the battle in the rear’;
the Nazi standards on the floor in the Victory Room;
the Iron Crosses;
the shattered eagle that used to stand on top of the Reichstag in Berlin;
Hitler’s personal standard;
the image of Marshal Zhukov riding his horse over the Nazi standards in Red Square on May 9th 1945;
the fine bust of JV Stalin, together with his military dress uniform;
the shattered remains of the U2 American spy plane;
the Red Army and and women flanking the main entrance to the museum;

among much more.

Location;

Soviet Army Street, Moscow

GPS;

55.78503 N

36.61708 E

How to get there;

The museum is a little over a five minute walk from the Dostoyevskaya Metro station on the Line 10 (Green). Leave by the exit that leads to the Red Army Theatre. Go past the right hand side of the theatre and at the road junction/pedestrian crossing take the right, once on the other side go left and the museum is about 100 metres on the right.