Dzibilnocac – Campeche – Mexico

Dzibilnocac

Dzibilnocac

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Dzibilnocac – Campeche

Location

The archaeological area, and the western section in particular, has been severely affected by the modern town of Iturbide. Dzibilnocac was coined recently (20th century) and is a reference to a ‘hieroglyphic inscription on a large turtle’, possibly an allusion to a stone sculpture now lost. The site is situated 150 km south-east of Campeche City. Take the road from the latter to Hopelchen, continue to Dzibalchen and then on to Iturbide (officially, Vicente Guerrero).

Timeline, site description and monuments

A radiocarbon date and ceramic material from the Middle Preclassic confirm that the site began to develop around 400 BC. The architectural and sculptural remains show that it reached its peak during the Late Classic (AD 600-900), while the ceramics suggest that the site was abandoned around AD 1000.

Dzibilnocac was a large settlement comprising several groups of monumental constructions arranged in a regular pattern. Devoured by the rainforest for centuries, it was repopulated in 1822, when it was christened Iturbide after Agustin de Iturbide y Aramburu (1783-1824), the self-proclaimed Augustine I, Emperor of Mexico. The pre-Columbian site lies beneath several urban and rural layers, and can still be seen to occupy a surface area of approximately 1 sq km. There are numerous mounds of rubble and platforms, pyramids, buildings with several rooms that once had masonry corbel-vault ceilings and exterior decorative elements composed of stone mosaic masks. The only construction that has been restored – and only partially at that – is Structure A-1, which comprises several rooms arranged longitudinally to which three towers were abutted: one at each end and one in the centre. Various features denote the Chenes style, which is characterised by profuse decoration and long-nosed masks in particular. Rounded corners are another frequent feature of this style. Visible in the central section of both of the long sides are the jaws of the great Earth Monster, on which the central tower rests. The representation is made of stone mosaic and in addition to the curved veneer stones or teeth the allegory was adorned with cartouches showing stucco symbols of water and the scales of one of the Maya gods, painted in different colours.

Several pieces from Dzibilnocac are on display in the museums in Campeche City: a stela, various capstones and an anthropomorphic sculpture. The stela has bands of hieroglyphs. The capstones represent the deity Kauil in red on a white background, and the sculpture shows the head of a figure with an unusual headdress, the ends of which hang down on both sides of the face.

Importance and relations

Although Dzibilnocac is situated in the Chenes stylistic region, characterised by the use of profusely decorated facades, the presence of non-functional towers at Structure A-l is associated with architectural features of the Rio Bec region, some 100 km further south but still in the Campeche region. The numerous monumental remains at the ancient city and several of the hieroglyphic inscriptions – as yet only briefly studied – confirm a regional hegemony lasting several centuries, especially during the 8th century AD. Stelae 1 and 2 are inscribed with the year 731, while a fragment from another piece shows the year 764.

From: ‘The Maya: an architectural and landscape guide’, produced jointly by the Junta de Andulacia and the Universidad Autonoma de Mexico, 2010, pp303-304.

Dzibilnocac

Dzibilnocac

1. The Palace at Chunhuhub.

Getting there:

From Hopelchén. There are reasonably regular buses from the Sur ‘bus station’ in Hopelchén, where you’ll also find a written timetable of departures from the town. Iturbide (Vicente Guerrero – never got to know why the place had two names) is the end of the line heading south-east. Get off at the terminus and take the road below the sports area, heading east. The site is signed to your right in less than 10 minutes walking.

GPS:

19d 34’ 41” N

89d 35’ 41” W

Entrance:

Free

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Museum of Mayan Architecture – Campeche

Museum of Mayan Architecture - Campeche

Museum of Mayan Architecture – Campeche

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Museum of Mayan Architecture – Campeche

This is a small (4 room) museum in the historic centre of Campeche.

There may not be a huge number of objects but what is there is worth the visit. Many of the stelae en situ in the ruins site have suffered from erosion – from time and the weather.

Here you will find carvings that are legible and help to understand how the Maya represented themselves and their culture.

Getting there;

The museum is inside the Baluarte de la Soledad, on the city wall, just down from the main square (Zocolo) where the cathedral is located, near Avenida 16 de Setiembre in the historic part of Campeche.

Entrance:

M$70

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Chicanna – Campeche – Mexico

Chicanna

Chicanna

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Chicanna – Campeche

Location

This is situated 127 km east of Escarcega, 133 km west of Chetumal, and just 3 km south-west of Becan, a very short distance according to the standards of ancient times. The inhabitants of these nearby sites must have maintained close contact. In fact, the remains of the pre-Hispanic settlement found outside the Becan moat spread out in several directions, forming a continuous urban fabric which included Chicanna. This site contains the same monumental construction tradition that characterises the region in general: Rio Bec-style buildings, which often contain structures with numerous chambers and high towers at the ends, facades with giant zoomorphic masks, rounded corners and claddings of carefully cut veneer stones. The name of the site was invented in the mid-20th century based on the translation of the Maya words for ‘in the mouth of the serpent house’: chi, shore, mouth; can, serpent; na, house. This explains why the word has a double ‘n’. The name is a reference to Structure II.

Timeline, site description and monuments

The earliest occupation dates from the 1st century AD (sub-structure of Structure I). The settlement continued to expand throughout the Early Classic (AD 250-600) and reached its peak in the Late Classic, between 600 and 900, when most the constructions we see today were built. Subsequently, it gradually lost its political influence and entered a decline, and was finally abandoned around the 12th century.

Structure XX.

Chicanna boasts several monumental groups. The first group we come across is distinguished by this two-storey construction, which had an imposing zoomorphic main facade, part of which can still be seen today (south side of the building). It occupies a quadrangular surface, practically 18 m per side, whose dimensions must clearly be associated with something of great symbolic value for the construction of the work. Eleven rooms cover the entire perimeter of this first tier, while another four rooms can be found on the second tier. This is accessed from the main facade, which has two interior staircases at the rear. With the exception of the room on the central north facade, all the rooms on this first tier had large benches that covered nearly all the interior space. Most of these benches had stucco rosettes or medallions, with anthropomorphic faces at the centre and flower-like motifs around them. The structure has been carbon dated to around AD 800. Soon after that, it gained several constructions on the west side, which have not yet been fully explored.

Structures X to XIII.

A 300-m walkway south-west of Structure XX leads to an architectural complex with two shared courtyards. Following partial excavations, it is possible to see several vaulted rooms used as residences for high-ranking officials. Most of the rooms in the residential buildings at Chicanna have benches for resting or sleeping purposes. Thanks to their dimensions, building materials and orientation, the dwellings were cool in the hot season and yet warm and comfortable in the cold and rainy seasons.

Central group.

This is situated 100 m north-east of the aforementioned constructions and its highest structure (Building I) occupies the west section; it contains partially preserved lateral towers and ten rooms arranged in pairs, some of them with benches inside. The north side of the courtyard is occupied by two adjoining buildings from different periods. The construction on the south side has not yet been excavated. The most striking element in this courtyard is Structure II, built between AD 750 and 770. It is situated on the east side, which is distinguished by the stone figure of the Earth Monster, its mouth open to reveal fangs. This is made of finely carved limestone mosaic blocks and stucco, on which it is still possible to see traces of different colours, especially deep red. Six of the eight rooms adopt a longitudinal plan, while the two spaces at the rear ends are quadrangular, possibly having been used for objects associated with the ceremonies held in the architectural complex. Structure II at Chicanna is one of the best-preserved examples of a Rio Bec zoomorphic facade. We do not know the original name of the archaeological area, but the present-day name of the site is inspired by this building

Structure VI.

This is situated 100 m south-east of the previous courtyard and contains several south-facing rooms in a row. The facade wall displays partially preserved stacks of stylised masks representing the Earth Monster, and above the roof it is still possible to see part of the crest or comb that reinforced its majestic appearance. Additional masonry buildings were added to the west side of the edifice, all of which have lost their roofs. Structures VII to IX are associated with this architectural complex but have not been excavated. To date, no stelae or sculptures have been found at Chicanna. The ceramic materials uncovered during the different excavations are on display in the archaeology museums in Campeche and Hecelchakan.

Importance and relations

Chicanna was a satellite site of Becan, which is just 3 km away. In all likelihood, there were people at Chicanna who were related to the ruling family at the moat surrounded site. Both places contain examples of the architecture that gave its name to the region: Rio Bec.

From: ‘The Maya: an architectural and landscape guide’, produced jointly by the Junta de Andulacia and the Universidad Autonoma de Mexico, 2010, pp332-334.

Chicanna

Chicanna

  1. Structure XX; 2. Structure XI; 3. Central Group; 4. Structure I; 5. Structure III; 6. Structure II; 7. Structure IV; 8. Structure VI.

Getting there:

From Xpujil. It’s possible to take colectivos that are heading toward Conhuas or the SUR bus heading towards Puerto Escárcega. Flag anything that looks like a colectivo to get back.

GPS:

18d 30′ 05″ N

89d 28′ 54″ W

Entrance:

M$70

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