Iximche – Tecpán – Guatemala

Posted on 28/07/2023 by Michael

Iximche

Iximche – Tecpán

Location

The archaeological site is situated 90 km from Guatemala city, in the department of Chimaltenango, and 5 km from the town of Tecpán. It occupies an upland area some 2,260 m above sea level, and the predominant climate is therefore mild to cold. The Iximche citadel sits atop a hill called Ratzamut, surrounded by deep ravines. Coniferous forests, principally pine and cypress, are the predominant vegetation. There is usually a cool wind blowing which on striking the trees produces a pleasant, relaxing sound. Iximche is a Caqchikel word meaning ‘place of maize trees’, the predominant species in the central Guatemalan Highlands. This city was the capital of the Caqchikel kingdom between the late 15th and early 16th centuries. It was founded in 1470, after the Caqchikel Maya, the former allies of the K’iche’s, were expelled from their land as a result of various internal conflicts. In keeping with the Postclassic custom, they sought a base on a high plateau with defensive properties, in the middle of a fertile crop-growing region populated with woodlands. This base soon gained a larger population.

Pre-Hispanic history

The prosperity of Iximche was relatively short, lasting only 60 years, because despite its territorial expansion, particularly towards the rich resources on the south coast of Guatemala, the Spanish Conquest led to its abandonment and destruction. The Spaniards were initially received as allies by the Caqchikel monarchs Belehe Qat and Cahi Imox, but the alliance was short lived and the settlers left the city, which was subsequently burned and abandoned by the Spaniards. It was here that the first colonial city in Guatemala was founded, called Santiago de Guatemala, on 25 July 1524. On subsequently being abandoned, the city was transferred on three occasions to different sites, eventually ending up at the present-day Guatemala City, where it took the name of La Nueva Guatemala de la Asuncion.

Site description

The Iximche citadel was articulated around various semi-enclosed plazas and platforms distributed in an area of approximately 15,000 sq m. It consisted of three principal elements: a temple, a large house and a ball court. It also contained various other details, such as altars, drainage systems, platforms for perishable structures, etc. Each section was connected by access stairways to the different plazas. There were also narrow passageways between the different groups to facilitate the circulation of the population. There were six plazas in total, all with a north-west/south-east orientation, varying slightly in size and containing over 170 structures all together. The plazas were designated archaeologically by means of the capital letters A to F, the largest being Plaza C. Only four of them have been restored. Watchtowers overlooking the surrounding ravines were built at the ends of the plateau on which the site stands. The main access, in the north-west, was preceded by a deep moat and flanked by two elongated structures in the fashion of a defensive wall, 3 m in height.

In terms of the construction materials, local resources such as sedimentary rock and pumice were used, cut into small blocks which were arranged in the fashion of ashlar stones, bonded by a mortar of sand, lime and clay and then covered with stucco. The interior of the structures was filled with mud and pebbles. Perishable materials were also used for walls and ceilings, mainly in the case of dwellings but some temples as well. The shape of the buildings varies according to their function. The temples are the most outstanding constructions and the tallest. They consist of a pyramidal platform with sloping walls and inset corners. A stairway is inset into the middle of the pyramid. At the top of the pyramid is a platform for supporting a construction made out of perishable material, in front of which there is usually a small altar. The facades of these buildings display vertical finial blocks, a characteristic feature of Postclassic architecture.

The ball-court structures are of the enclosed variety and were designed in the shape of the letter I. However, they have access stairways at both ends. The parallel volumes that delimit the court consist of a bench from which rises a vertical wall culminating in a type of platform. There are no visible butt or ring markers as at other sites in the highlands, although Guillemin mentions that various zoomorphic butts were found near structure 24 and may correspond to the missing markers. The total interior length of one of the courts (structure 8 ) is 30 m, with a width of 7 m between the walls, structure 7, another ball court which has not been restored, displays the same dimensions.

The so-called palace, situated in Plaza B, is the largest and most complex architectural structure at Iximche. According to Guillemin, the palace had an original core of approximately 500 sq m and was subsequently extended in all four directions, gaining new constructions with interior courtyards. It also extended upwards, eventually encompassing a surface area in excess of 3,000 sq m. The residential complex includes houses with interior benches and concave hearths, situated around enclosed courtyards with altars in the middle, structure 22 in Plaza A is an example of a large house; it consists of an elongated platform with numerous access stairways and what look like pillars forming the entrances to the interior of the building, which also contained abutted benches. In terms of the altars situated in the courtyards, these vary in shape and size; some of them consist of platforms that resemble miniature temples, while others have a circular plan. Plaza A has the largest number of such altars, six in total, with the majority situated opposite structure 3, a vast temple pyramid. Some of the most notable characteristics of Iximche are the murals that adorned the interior of various dwellings and buildings, as well as certain altars, such as Altar 47 next to structure 2, which displays traces of black, red and green paint. The plazas at the site were clearly associated with the residences of the most important lineages of the Caqchikel society of the 16th century. Plaza B may have accommodated the governors. Nowadays, Iximche has a site museum containing a collection of objects found during the excavations, as well as a scale model of the fortress city and photographs of the excavation process. It also has a car park, public toilets, information panels situated strategically along the itinerary, and wooded areas. Due to the sacred nature of the site, Maya ceremonies are conducted in a structure situated in the plaza furthest away from the entrance. Celebrated with a certain frequency, these rituals attract numerous people.

Edgar Carpio

From: ‘The Maya: an architectural and landscape guide’, produced jointly by the Junta de Andulacia and the Universidad Autonoma de Mexico, 2010, pp490-492.

Iximche

1. Plaza C; 2. Structure 7; 3. Plaza B; 4. Palace; 5. Structure 8; 6. Structure 22.

How to get there;

A combi, with the word Ruinas scrawled on the windscreen, leaves from the main square. It takes you straight to the main entrance to the site. Q5

GPS:

14d 44’ 8” N

90d 59’ 46” W

Entrance:

Q50

Kaminaljuyu – Guatemala City

Posted on 27/07/2023 by Michael

Kaminaljuyu

Kaminaljuyu – Guatemala City

Location

Kaminaljuyu, a K’iche’ word meaning ‘Hill of the Dead’, is situated in the Ermita Valley, the site of the presentday Guatemala City, some 1,500 m above sea level. This was a valley of fertile land and historians believe it was for this reason that it was chosen as the fourth site of the capital after the ancient city was destroyed in Santiago de los Caballeros in 1776. Due to the modern expansion of Guatemala City, nowadays it is difficult to see that it consists of a valley surrounded by deep ravines on the banks of which numerous brooks flowed into streams situated on lower ground. The vegetation was characterised by holm oaks and pines, although only a few pockets of such woodlands have survived to this day. The predominant climate is mild, with two clearly differentiated seasons: a dry one occurring between November and April, and a rainy season between May and October.

Pre-Hispanic history

The earliest occupation of Kaminaljuyu is believed to date from around 1000 BC, although the greatest evidence of its population corresponds to 800 BC (the Middle Preclassic). This was concentrated primarily around the old Lake Miraflores, nowadays completely dry. During this period, the population was well organised and built large clay platforms surmounted by small huts made of perishable material, believed to have been used as temples. Most of the constructions were situated along a north-south axis, a characteristic of Preclassic sites. Evidence has also been found of dwellings and botellones, large holes dug out of the natural ground, sometimes in the shape of a bell, containing debris, tombs and fragments of figurines. The figurines from this period tend to represent naked pregnant women and bear a great similarity to examples found at sites along the south coast, such as La Blanca and La Victoria.

Kaminaljuyu had grown considerably by around 300 BC, extending over a radius of more than 1 km around Lake Miraflores. The lake was clearly important for the Preclassic city as several channels have been found, indicating the hydraulic skills of this society. These channels must have been used for distributing water to the various crop fields located around the site. However, by the end of the Late Preclassic, around AD 300, the lake had dried up, apparently due to a combination of climate changes and over-exploitation. Kaminaljuyu also maintained control over sites situated outside the valley. During the Classic era, its governors sustained ties with Teotihuacan, as evidenced by the ceramics found in several tombs and by some of the architectural styles. There may well have been marriage alliances between the elite classes of Kaminaljuyu and Teotihuacan to reinforce control over the trading networks in the region. Meanwhile, the strategic location of Kaminaljuyu between the Pacific Coast and the Maya lowlands enabled it to play an important trading role within a large region, apparently controlling the trade in obsidian and other important commodities such as jade and cacao. When Teotihuacan collapsed, Kaminaljuyu began to lose power: there are signs of decline in the late Classic era and, despite the presence of a few remains from a small Postclassic occupation, the site finally collapsed around AD 900.

Site description

At the beginning of the 20th century, more than 200 mounds were reported at Kaminaljuyu. Approximately 35 structures can be seen today. Of these, 10 ha belong to the Kaminaljuyu Archaeological Park, situated at 9th Calle A and 30 Avenida A in Zone 7. Two groups have been excavated and exposed for visitors to gain an insight into the typical clay architecture built at the site: the Palangana and the acropolis (Group C-II-4). The Acropolis comprises several constructions and beneath it are the Preclassic embankments corresponding to the earliest occupation of the site. The buildings display the talud-tablero (slope-and-panel) architecture that is characteristics of the Teotihuacan style. The surfaces appear to have been painted red, and it is possible to see the remains of two drains made with stone slabs for controlling the distribution of water inside the building. The constructions at the Acropolis are clad with a special type of concrete which seems to have been made of mouldings and fired prior to its application. The tableros or panels display finely cut two-faced stones and the concrete was applied vertically, denoting a certain expertise. The section of the site known as the palangana also contains remains of the ancient architecture. The excavations uncovered Middle Classic (AD 400-600) constructions, which also contain Teotihuacan-style architecture. Furthermore, the evidence suggests that this area continued to be occupied until the end of the Classic era (c. AD 900), although there are also a few insignificant remains from the Postclassic. Very close to the park, some 500 m to the south-east, stands mound D-III-I , dated to the Late Classic, which displays various tableros inlaid with obsidian; this construction is known as ‘El Chay’, chayal being the Kaqchikel Maya word for this mineral. There are also a few, albeit poorly preserved, clay effigies that once formed part of the small masks adorning the facade.

Monuments

The abundance of volcanic rock around the central valley offered a raw material for making monumental sculptures. It also explains why Kaminaljuyu boasts one of the largest sculptural groups from the Preclassic (800 BC-AD 300). The exact number of monuments at the site is not yet known, but the inventory already lists around one hundred specimens. In addition to the two areas excavated and covered by large roofs to protect the structures, visitors can stroll around the park and see some of the structures covered by grass. There are also a few monuments still in their original location. For example, the Acropolis contains two outstanding monuments: a jaguar with a butt, which represents a ball-court marker and would appear to be one of a pair, the other specimen being Monument 34, currently on display at the National Museum of Archaeology and Ethnology; and a skull-shaped incense burner associated with Building G. Other monuments at the park include various smooth stelae scattered around the grounds and Stela 26, situated in the lower plaza near the Palangana. This monument displays a sculpted sky band at its base. On the other side of Calle 11 at the park, behind the Palangana, in Building C-III-2, are monuments 42 and 43 associated with a talud-tablero structure. Monument 43 represents a headdress that appears to rise from a platform. Other monuments were found at the park but are now on display at the National Museum of Archaeology and Ethnology (still closed in the summer of 2023).

Barbara Arroyo

From: ‘The Maya: an architectural and landscape guide’, produced jointly by the Junta de Andulacia and the Universidad Autonoma de Mexico, 2010, pp484-486

There’s a small museum just behind the ticket office at the entrance to the park. The places to visit are locked so you might have to wait a few minutes for one of the guardians to take you there.

How to get there:

Take the TransMetro Line 7 from the old town to bus stop Ciudad de Plata II, cross the road on the overpass and then go down 13 Calle until you reach the perimeter of the (fenced) park. Go anti-clockwise around the perimeter to the entrance.

GPS:

15d 19′ 16″ N

90d 21′ 09″ W

Entrance:

Q50

Q’Umarkaj-Gumarcaj – Santa Cruz del Quiche – Guatemala

Posted on 27/07/2023 by Michael

Q’Umarkaj-Gumarcaj

Q’Umarkaj-Gumarcaj – Santa Cruz del Quiche

[The description below promises much more than is, in fact, to be seen. Probably, for me, the most under-whelming site so far – hence the few pictures in the slide show. After I left the site I started to think that I must have missed something, but was sure I saw all that was there. Perhaps, I’ll never know.]

Location

Q’umarkaj, which means ‘old reed huts’, is a pre-Hispanic fortress situated 8 km from the departmental capital of El Quiche, approximately 163 km north-west of Guatemala City. Also known as Utatlan and Guamarcaj, it was the capital of the K’iche’ kingdom, and therefore the political seat of the most powerful entity in the Guatemalan Highlands during the Postclassic. From here, the K’iche’ kings ruled over a large territory encompassing most of the central and western plateau of Guatemala, from the Chixoy Valley to Quetzaltenango and San Marcos between the plateau and the coast, covering an area of over 7,000 sq km. It was founded in AD 1250 by the governor Gucumatz and destroyed due to conflicts with the Spanish conquistadors in 1524.

Pre-Hispanic history

According to historical sources, the K’iche’ nation was a crucial target for the Spaniards, who had received news in central Mexico about the power wielded by the K’iche’ governors and their rule over other groups on the Guatemalan plateau. A military expedition led by Pedro de Alvarado departed for the Guatemalan Highlands to subjugate the K’iche’s. En route, the Spaniards struck alliances with opposing groups such as the Caqchikels, who together with Tlaxcaltec warriors helped to defeat the K’iche’s. In keeping with the Postclassic architectural tradition and settlement pattern, the city of Q’umarkaj was established on a hilltop overlooking the surrounding territory and offering defensive advantages. The area enjoys the typically mild climate of the plateau, while the vegetation consists of large trees that provide ample shade, a cool breeze and raw material for the construction of dwellings and handicrafts, as well as fuel for domestic uses. The K’iche’ capital occupied a strategic geographical position, enabling the population to control the fertile lands, valleys, water resources and trading routes, all of which gave this group an enormous advantage over its rivals.

Site description

The architectural characteristics of the site include double stairways, twin-temple complexes, elongated structures or large houses in the fashion of palaces with pillars, numerous entrances and interior courtyards, ball-court structures, sloping pyramid platforms, vertical walls or finial blocks and circular structures. The city consists of three building groups connected by causeways. Each group has a plaza, twin temples with a double stairway, and a ball court, as well as low platforms for dwellings and circular structures. These groups must have been organised hierarchically in keeping with the relative importance of the principal K’iche’ lineages. These would appear to have established a complex form of social organisation based on territorial federations called chinamitales, out of which they created three Amak or large federations and established their capital, Q’umarkaj, in one of them. The building materials used were the local adobe, sedimentary rock and igneous rock, covered with stucco for a more elegant finish and greater durability. The fired clay technique was also used to create the solid core of some of the structures, while mud, pebbles and sand, duly compacted, were used as fillings. A network of artificial caves for ceremonial purposes has been found beneath the site. These continued to be used in the same way today, like the ruins of certain structures such as the Temple of Tohil, where modern day Maya priests perform rituals.

Despite minimal restoration and research, various structures illustrate the architectural characteristics of the site. The temple dedicated to Tohil in the middle of the Central Plaza is one of the most important constructions at this Postclassic city. It is a pyramidal structure composed of a sloping wall, which constitutes the balustrades flanking the stairway, surmounted by a vertical wall or finial block. A small stairway once led to the upper platform and temple. This pyramid was one of the highest at the site.

The other important buildings at the site are the Temple of Awilix, the Temple of Q’uq’umatz, the ball court in the Central Plaza, the Temple of Jac aw itz, the Tamub Temple and the Kawek Palace. The Temple of Awilix, which stands opposite the Temple of Tojil, consisted of two main tiers, the first wide and the second narrower. The top tier had two stairways, divided by a finial block, leading to a temple with a roof comb. Two standard bearers were found flanking the central stairway. Meanwhile, the Ball Court was of the enclosed, I-plan variety with a single and relatively small access stairway situated at one of the ends. Another stairway led to the top of each wall where there must have been a type of roofed box for authorities supported by pillars. The parallel walls were sloped and lined with benches. The marker at the top of the court must have been of the ring variety. From the Central Plaza, the remainder of the site stretches out in all four directions, the north section being the most distant. The south, east and west sections contain various residential buildings and a few temples at what has been called the ‘ritual-council palatial’ complex. Nowadays, all of the visible large structures are situated in and around the Central Plaza and adopt the form of mounds. None of them have been restored, although a few have been consolidated. Further away from the plaza are a few smaller structures in a similar state of preservation.

Situated at the entrance to Q’umarkaj is a small site museum (closed in summer 2023) containing pieces recovered during the excavations, a scale model and informative panels offering details about the history of the site and general aspects relating to the K’iche’ culture. There are also a few modern objects made locally, such as the traditional brightly-coloured fabrics that are produced in the nearby town of Chichicastenango, which is famous for its textile market and still contains numerous elements that defined the K’iche’ culture. The most famous of these is the church of Santo Tomas Chichicastenango, where the Popol Vuh, the sacred book of the K’iche’s, was copied.

Edgar Carpio

From: ‘The Maya: an architectural and landscape guide’, produced jointly by the Junta de Andulacia and the Universidad Autonoma de Mexico, 2010, pp492-493

How to get there;

A combi, with Ruinas scrawled on the windscreen, leaves from the square in front of the church on a regular basis during the day. Q5. It’s route ends at the bottom of the approach road to the site.