Moscow Kievskya railway station

Posted on 02/08/2024 by Michael

Kievskaya Railway Station – Sachkv

Moscow Kievskya railway station

Kiyevskya railway terminal (Russian: Ки́евский вокза́л, Kievskiy vokzal) is one of the nine railway terminals of Moscow, Russia. It is the only railway station in Moscow to have a frontage on the Moskva River. The station is located at the Square of Europe, in the beginning of Bolshaya Dorogomilovskaya Street in Dorogomilovo District of Moscow. A hub of the Moscow Metro is located nearby.

Kievskaya railway station – 03

As the name suggests, there were regular services to Kiev and many other points in Ukraine. There used to be regular services to Belgrade, Zagreb, Varna, Bucharest, Sofia, Chișinău, Niš, Budapest, Prague, Vienna and Venice as well. 15-20 years ago, all these trains were cancelled, some were transferred to the Belorussky railway station.

The station was built between 1914 and 1918 in the Byzantine Revival style, which is especially pronounced in the 51m-high (167 ft) clock tower. Originally named the Bryansk station, it was designed by Ivan Rerberg and Vladimir Shukhov, and is considered an important landmark of architecture and engineering of the time.

Text above from Wikipedia.

The decoration of the building, both inside and outside, seems to be very much as it was designed at the beginning of the 20^th century. Soviet imagery just appears to have been superimposed on what could be considered tsarist baroque. This is apart from the main waiting room that had four large bas-reliefs added after the Great Patriotic War. In fact, this particular area contains the greatest amount of Soviet emblems, i.e., the hammer and sickle image, stars and also references to the Ukrainian Soviet Republic.

Kievskaya railway station – 04

At the time of my visit in May 2024 there was also a temporary exhibition of Soviet posters (reproductions) from the time of the Great Patriotic War to coincide with the celebration of Victory Day on the 9^th.

Kievskaya railway station – 05

The exterior façade of the building includes two images of Saint George – one of him killing the dragon and the other on his stay in heaven. These appear to be coloured mosaics but I have no idea whether these were covered in the past or just allowed to be there as they were part of the original decoration. Also of interest from the original design are the four art deco statues which flank the image of George, allegories for early 20^th industry and transport.

Kievskaya railway station – 01

Also, on the left hand side of what is now the main entrance to the building is a large grey marble plaque to VI Lenin.

Kievskaya railway station – 02

So far the building has avoided the same sort of ‘modernisation’ that has been inflicted upon other railway stations. Whether that is a sign of its now limited use or the fact that the modernisation is about to come is unknown.

Related;

Moscow Metro

Yaroslavsky mainline railway station – Moscow

Stalingrad (Volgograd) Railway Station

Kazansky Mainline Railway Station – Moscow

Architect;

Ivan Rerberg and Vyacheslav Oltarzhevsky

Chief Engineer;

Vladimir Shukhov

Location;

1, Kiyevskogo Vokzala Square

GPS;

55.743056°N

37.567222°E

More on the USSR

Monument to VI Lenin on Tverskaya Square

Posted on 24/07/2024 by Michael

Lenin – Tverskaya Square – Ludvig14

More on the USSR

Monument to VI Lenin on Tverskaya Square

Monument to Lenin on Tverskaya Square (Russian: Памятник Ленину на Тверской площади) is a sculpture of V.I. Lenin located at the back of the Russian State Archive of Socio-Political History building in Moscow. Established in 1940. The authors of the monument were sculptor Sergey Dmitriyevich Merkurov and architect I. A. Frantsuz. The monument has the status of an object of cultural heritage of federal significance.

The sculpture of V.I. Lenin is made of red granite. It is installed on a pedestal made of blocks of dark gray granite. Lenin is depicted seated and tilted forward. It seems that he listens carefully to his interlocutor. With his left hand, Lenin leaned on his knee, with a notebook in it. The right hand with a pencil – behind the back of the chair. According to art historian N. D. Sobolevsky, ‘the plastic expression of the sculptural image is in perfect harmony with the psychologically vivid image of Ilyich’. [Perhaps due to a poor translation but I have no idea what that means.]

The location of the monument was not chosen randomly. Lenin repeatedly spoke at the Tverskaya (then Soviet) Square from the balcony of the Moscow City Council building (now Moscow City Hall), which is reminiscent of a memorial plaque. The monument was installed in front of the building of the Lenin Institute under the Central Committee of the CPSU (B).

Before the installation of the monument, the sculpture of Lenin was demonstrated at the World Exhibition in 1939 in New York City.

Text above from Wikipedia.

VI Lenin – Tverskaya Square

When this statue was initially installed the area was very different from what it is now.

In 1940 anyone going into the Marx-Engels-Lenin Institute by the main entrance would have passed this statue. At some time in the next 30 years or so the main entrance to the Institute was changed to the other side of the building so the statue then became the focal point of the public square that was between the Institute and Tverskaya Street, across which is the Moscow City Council building. (There are interesting bas reliefs, one of them of Lenin, on the street level wall on either side of the main entrance of the Council building facing Tverskaya Square.)

However, part of this square has now been taken over by what seems a cross between a restaurant and a garden centre – with the installation of some imperial statue close to the main road. Although ‘officially’ not part of this ‘development’ it seems that the owners have also taken over the small part of the square that was immediately in front of Lenin’s statue. This area has been fenced off in a semi-permanent manner as a storage area for plants and garden material and so denying public access to the garden itself and the statue.

This was the first such ‘privatisation’ of a public space I encountered in Moscow as, in general, public spaces of Soviet times still remain in the public domain – not as in Albania, for example, where there was a free for all in grabbing as much of the public space as possible.

This meant that the photos in the slide show were taken either over or through the fence – not the most ideal of conditions for recording the sculpture. Hopefully what has been recorded gives an idea of the art work.

Sculptor;

Sergey Dmitriyevich Merkurov

Architect;

I.A. Frantsuz

Location;

Tverskaya square

GPS;

55.76233°N

37.61146°E

More on the USSR

Yaroslavsky mainline railway station – Moscow

Posted on 22/07/2024 by Michael

Yaroslavsky Station

More on the USSR

Moscow Metro – the world’s biggest Socialist Realist Art Gallery

Yaroslavsky mainline railway station – Moscow

Moscow Yaroslavsky railway station (Russian: Ярославский вокзал) is one of the nine main railway stations in Moscow. Situated on Komsomolskaya Square (close to the Kazansky and Leningradsky Stations), Moscow Yaroslavskaya has the highest passenger throughput of all nine of the capital’s main-line termini. It serves eastern destinations, including those in the Russian Far East, being the western terminus of the world’s longest railway line, the Trans-Siberian. The station takes its name from that of the ancient city of Yaroslavl which, lying 284 rail kilometres (176 miles) north-east of Moscow, is the first large city served by the line.

Text above from Wikipedia.

The Yaroslavsky mainline railway station in Moscow is not only the busiest of the capital’s rail hubs it is also one of the most interesting architecturally. The present building was built to replace the original 19th century station in the first decade of the 20th, therefore before the October Revolution of 1917 and the influences of the new socialist society upon architecture and decoration.

Yaroslavsky Station – early 20th century

The architect of the new building was Fyodor Schechtel, who was also responsible for other Art Nouveau buildings in Moscow.

The station is an example of Russian Art Nouveau (which, until recently, I didn’t even know existed). When compared with buildings constructed in other European countries at the same period, i.e., the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th centuries, it is possible to see the connections. Each ‘national’ art nouveau shared certain conceptions (mainly the connection to nature) but with specific aspects which were derived from the individual national culture and tradition. (To compare with examples of ‘modernismo’ in Catalunya follow some of the links on the Catalunya/Catalonia page.)

Yaroslavsky Station – 02

What might surprise some people is that when the Soviet state wanted to put it’s own ‘stamp’ on the building this was not at the expense of what had been originally created in the pre-revolutionary period.

Having not seen a comprehensive photographic record of what the building looked like prior to 1917 it is not possible to say if certain modernist decoration might have been removed to allow for that favoured under the artistic influence of Socialist Realism. Also, I’m not aware of the level of damage that might have been caused by the Nazi invasion of the Great Patriotic War and the level of reconstruction that might have been needed following the victory over German fascism. Such reconstruction would have made it easier to choose between restoration of the original decoration of the 1910s and the creation of new decorative panels which included Soviet imagery.

Yaroslavsky Station – 04

However the decoration evolved it is clear that there was a respect for the original images, even though they might have been considered as ‘bourgeois art’. The various mosaics/tiles on the exterior seem to have been kept as they would have been in 1910 and they, and the bas reliefs of animals and representations of nature from the Yaroslavl countryside, are all in very good condition. In fact all the decoration on the outside of the building is in a very good condition.

If the original imagery, for example, those which made reference to the Tsarist period, have been removed and replaced with those more fitting to a Socialist society then it was carried out in a very sympathetic and, at least to my eye, seamless manner.

Yaroslavsky Station – 03

However, there are two areas, at the very top of the building, where an obvious removal and replacement has taken place.

In the centre of the ridge crest on top of the very steep hip roof, immediately above the principal entrance, there used to be a double-headed eagle – the symbol of the imperial court. This has been replaced by a hammer and sickle (the symbol of the Soviet Union) with the letters ‘CCCP’ for Союз Советских Социалистических Республик, Union of Soviet Socialist Republics (USSR).

Yaroslavsky Station – 01

And at the very summit of the broach spire, to the left of the main entrance when looking from the street, there would have been a Christian cross which was later replaced by a star, another symbol of the Soviet state.

Whereas the exterior has been treated well and every effort made to retain what had previously been created the same cannot be said about the interior. The ticket hall and waiting area has been completely remodelled and the original decoration, if it wasn’t maliciously vandalised or removed, is now hidden behind antiseptic and anodyne modern facades. Looking at the building from the outside you can only be in Russia from the inside you could be anywhere in the ‘homogenised and globalised’ world, including the ubiquitous fast food outlets.

(However, western sanctions against Russia has had a positive effect in this area as American multinational fast food outlets have been seriously curtailed (yet not entirely eliminated – for reasons I don’t understand) so no McDonald’s – although Burger King still hangs in there for some reason – and the KFC concession to the right of the main entrance was closed when I visited the station in the summer of 2024 although open in its location opposite the Kievskaya metro station.)

However, immediately inside the main entrance the original decoration (mainly art nouveau) is still visible. This is the area which is very different from what it would have been even 20 or 30 years ago as this is the location of the obligatory security check of person and luggage. The presence of a number of security personnel resulted in one of them relieving her boredom by telling me it was not permissible to take photos so there are a limited number of pictures from the interior in the slide show below.

Yaroslavsky Station – 05

But time moves on. In rejecting the Soviet past and with the Tsarist past having far too many negative memories of feudalism the only way the modern rulers of Russia have of maintaining control of the population is by promoting the culture of superstition and ignorance. For that reason you will encounter a limited amount of religious imagery in all the mainline stations, mainly through the artifice of a small chapel and/or small shop selling religious tat.