Electrification mosaic – Chișinău – Moldova

Electrification

Electrification

More on Moldova – on the Post-Socialist Countries – Eastern Europe and Asia page

Soviet-era mosaics in Cahul – Gagauzia

Soviet Mosaics – Bălți – Moldova

VI Lenin and Palace of Culture Mosaic – Ribniţa – Pridnestrovie

Electrification mosaic – Chișinău – Moldova

Known as ‘Electrification’ this mosaic covers the whole of the western end of the building. As far as I can tell the reason the mosaic was installed in this location was due to the fact this was originally a factory making electrical components. The building has since been re-purposed.

This is a very symmetrical mosaic with the principal focal point being the large image of a female face right in the centre. In Socialist Realist art the female face represented progress and the collective effort towards industrialisation. Central to this struggle to bring the backward country of Russia, inherited by the Russian Revolution, was the electrification of the country – as set out by VI Lenin in his speech to the Congress of Soviets in 1920 (see below). This was just an extension of the artist depiction of women. In the Soviet society they were active participants in the construction of Socialism (in both town and country) and their depiction in artist works integrated femininity with themes of modernity and technological advance. Here both her hands are raised to shoulder level and it appears that the power, the energy, the electricity is emanating from her finger tips.

On both sides of the mosaic, and taking up the whole height and a third each of the width, are two large, red pylons. The pylon represented both the promise of electricity to all the country but also the enormity of the task of bringing electricity to all the people in a country that covered a sixth of the world’s land mass. This achievement was a visible difference from the old, Tsarist and feudal society in which the working masses were the last to see, if ever, the benefits of science and technology. When the pylon came to town life for all was about to change.

There are workers all over these two pylons and there are two tasks which can be clearly made out. One is the worker at the very top of the left hand pylon who is connecting cables to the glass insulators and lower down, on the same pylon, another worker is welding. Other workers on both sides are presenting a scene of activity, movement and a desire to complete the task of electrification as quickly as possible.

Underneath the pylon on the right there are a couple of trees and this indicates the task of providing electricity to the Soviet people was not just for those who lived in the cities – where the task was much ‘easier’ – but was something for which those who worked and lived in the countryside also had to see the benefits. It has to be remembered that immediately following the October Revolution the vast majority of the Russian people lived in the countryside and the sheer size of the country made the task that much greater.

At the bottom of the mosaic, directly beneath the female face, two males sit at a desk. Presumably these are operators in the control room of a power plant, making sure all is correct for the distribution of the power through the pylons being constructed throughout the country. Above their heads, in a sweeping upwards arc, is what looks like the dials that you would normally see on a power plant control panel.

Perhaps the most interesting aspect of this mosaic, at least from the political perspective, is the quote from VI Lenin that are placed at the very top, in the centre.

In Russian;

Коммунизм — это есть советская власть плюс электрификация всей страны

which translates as;

Communism is Soviet power plus the electrification of the whole country

The quote can be found in context in VI Lenin, Collected Works, Volume 31, p516.

More than a 105 years since Comrade Lenin uttered these words at the Eighth All-Russian Congress of Soviets in December 1920 they are considered so incendiary, at least amongst the capitalist/European Union leaning authorities in Moldova, that there has been an attempt to mask that part of the image. They don’t have the courage to directly attack the mosaic so just resort to petty vandalism.

It’s not possible (or at least I couldn’t find an easy way) to get really close to the mosaic but it is still possible to get an overall view of the art work from various viewpoints at street level at the junction. However, from a distance the mosaic looks in a reasonable condition – apart from the crass vandalism of VI Lenin’s words.

Artist;

Aurel David

Created;

1969

Location;

On the side of a building at the corner of Vaslie Lupu Street 18 and Vassarion Belinski Street.

GPS;

47.02220 N

28.80424 E

How to get there;

Trolleybuses 3, 4, 33 35 go along Vaslie Lupu Street. Get off at the Vassarion Belinski Street stop.

From here you are only a short walk from the north edge of Valae Morilor Lake for the VI Lenin monument and on the way to the Colonnades mosaics of activities in the park.

More on Moldova – on the Post-Socialist Countries – Eastern Europe and Asia page

Soviet-era mosaics in Cahul – Gagauzia

Soviet Mosaics – Bălți – Moldova

VI Lenin and Palace of Culture Mosaic – Ribniţa – Pridnestrovie

Telecommunications mosaic – Chișinău – Moldova

Telecommunications

Telecommunications

More on Moldova – on the Post-Socialist Countries – Eastern Europe and Asia page

Soviet-era mosaics in Cahul – Gagauzia

Soviet Mosaics – Bălți – Moldova

VI Lenin and Palace of Culture Mosaic – Ribniţa – Pridnestrovie

Telecommunications mosaic – Chișinău – Moldova

This is a relatively small mosaic which is on the side wall of the building that is now the HQ of Moldtelecom but which, during Soviet times, was the home of the Ministry of Communications for the Moldovan Soviet Socialist Republic and the Central Post Office.

The theme of the image is unity and connectivity – not just local but international. In the background you have the globe superimposed upon which is a jet liner and a couple of dial telephones.

Behind the telephones is a hand and this suggests the idea of hands around the world, a term which would have been more in use when the mosaic was created than it is, perhaps now, in the 21st century. This unity/connectivity also has reference to the international aspect of Soviet Socialism. And that ‘movement’ of connectivity is displayed by the horizontal lines which indicate a spinning, dynamic world.

The top, left hand corner is dominated by an image of a communications satellite, which would have represented cutting edge technology at the time.

There’s no reference to postal services with, for example, an image of an envelope, which is slightly surprising as the building was also the Central Post Office when the mosaic was created. This would seem to indicate that the remit was to represent ‘modern’ technology – which in 1967 would have meant telecommunications, with the new satellites but primarily via cable.

One thing this mosaic – which doesn’t effect in the same way most of the other mosaics in the country – demonstrates is the ‘sell by date’ of technology. Many of the younger (and perhaps the not so younger) people who pass by this mosaic wouldn’t have a clue what the little boxy items with a circle with dots are in the image – unless they had happened to have noticed them during a visit to a museum.

Although on a busy road this mosaic is one that is easy to miss. During the working day the hustle and bustle of the market would distract as some of the more informal, ‘goods laid out on a tarmac on the ground’ type of market stalls are immediately in front and below of the image.

Artists;

Mikhail Burya and Nikolai Kotsofan

Created;

1967

Location;

On Strada Tighina, close to the junction with Stefan cel Mare si Sfant Boulevard, in the Central Market area.

GPS;

47.01760 N

28.84441 E

How to get there;

The mosaic is on the right hand side as you go down Strada Tighina towards the central bus station.

More on Moldova – on the Post-Socialist Countries – Eastern Europe and Asia page

Soviet-era mosaics in Cahul – Gagauzia

Soviet Mosaics – Bălți – Moldova

VI Lenin and Palace of Culture Mosaic – Ribniţa – Pridnestrovie

Ploughman of the Cosmos mosaic – Chișinău – Moldova

Plowman of the Cosmos

Plowman of the Cosmos

More on Moldova – on the Post-Socialist Countries – Eastern Europe and Asia page

Soviet-era mosaics in Cahul – Gagauzia

Soviet Mosaics – Bălți – Moldova

VI Lenin and Palace of Culture Mosaic – Ribniţa – Pridnestrovie

Ploughman of the Cosmos mosaic – Chișinău – Moldova

‘Chișinău mosaics as a mirror of the era

The most dramatic example of the threat of destruction is the fate of the famous panel ‘Space Ploughman’ [or ‘Ploughman of the Universe/Ploughman of the Cosmos – translations vary], created by Aurel David on the wall of the former Youth Center Yuri Gagarin [in 1972]. Much of the building fell into ruin after privatisation but the mosaic has survived.

The author of the panel, Aure David, was a teacher of the artist Alexei Kolybnyak, who notes the innovative approach of his mentor. Since there was no classical Florentine mosaic (smacking) in Moldova, David came up with his own technique, which he called the Arcles using broken coloured glass. The ‘Space Ploughman’ is made in this technique. However, this new technique also brought a great danger: the lack of modern adhesive compositions has led to the fact that most of the works of Aurela David today self-destruct. Kolybnyak admits: ‘I have no idea how this mosaic can be preserved today. It can be restored, but what’s the point if the building itself is not? Transfer to another place? You can, but it will be something completely different’.

The problem is aggravated by legal status: ‘Space Ploughman’ is not included in the register of protected monuments. Unlike the panel of Mikhail Burya, transferred from the demolished Palace of Trade Unions to the wall of the Opera House, the current owner of the land, LLC ‘Eurodepozit’, has the right to do whatever it wants with David’s work’.

Above text from; Mosaics Chisinau as a Mirror of the Era – original in Russian and machine translated.

Ploughman of the Cosmos - in happier times.

Ploughman of the Cosmos – in happier times.

The mosaic is a metaphor of the ‘Socialist Man’ and the pioneering spirit of the Soviet Union embodied in Yuri Gagarin’s first ever flight into space. It also plays with the importance of labour in a Socialist society and the striving for progress.

Ploughman of the Cosmos - beginning of the degradation

Ploughman of the Cosmos – beginning of the degradation

The fate of the mosaic is entirely dependent on the fate of the building. Like so many public buildings (not just in Moldova but other post-Socialist countries in Eastern Europe) once the the societies collapsed after 1990 any consideration of public wealth was either looted, the land stolen under ‘privatisation’ or just allowed to fall into rack and ruin. I’ve never really been able to understand why such public amenities weren’t protected and kept under public/community control. By all accounts the centre was quite a significant one during the Soviet era, being a large complex on the edge of the city centre which comprised of; a 800 seat hall for social and political events; a concert hall with 400 seats; a library with 12,000 books; rooms for creative activities; ballet and sports halls as well as a restaurant and café. The complex also contained a hotel which was used by visiting foreign guests. If the building is not demolished time and the elements will resolve any doubts about its future – and the mosaic will go the same way.

It is stated that Yuri Gagarin laid the foundation stone in 1966 – but I don’t know if anyone knows where it might be now.

Yuri Gagarin Youth Centre ruin - Chișinău

Yuri Gagarin Youth Centre ruin – Chișinău

Artist;

Aurel David

Created;

1972

Location;

Strada Melestiu 1/3, Chișinău

GPS;

47.00747 N

28.85268 E

How to get there;

Bus No. 46 will take you to the end of Strada Melestiu from Boulevard Stefan cel Mare. It’s the terminus.

How to get close;

The mosaic is on one of the walls facing the road of the ruins of what used to be the Yuri Gagarin Youth Centre. Directions on digital maps will take you to a Tennis Club, which uses only a small part of the large building, most of which is totally derelict. The only I could see about getting a closer look at the mosaic would be to first work your way to the back of the building, negotiating building debris and then work through the derelict and abandoned building towards the front elevation. Be careful!

More on Moldova – on the Post-Socialist Countries – Eastern Europe and Asia page

Soviet-era mosaics in Cahul – Gagauzia

Soviet Mosaics – Bălți – Moldova

VI Lenin and Palace of Culture Mosaic – Ribniţa – Pridnestrovie