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Eternity Memorial Complex – Chișinău – Moldova

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Victory Memorial - Chișinău - May 9th, 1980

Victory Memorial – Chișinău – May 9th, 1980

Eternity Memorial Complex – Chișinău – Moldova

The memorial park to the fallen of the Great Patriotic War in Chișinău is quite a large complex compared to many of the ones I’ve visited in the other post-Soviet Republics. In Moldova such monuments are now called ‘Eternity Memorials’. One aspect of this memorial (which is repeated in other Moldovan towns) is that the Eternal Flame is still burning. Sadly the flame has been extinguished in many places, for example, in Bishtek (Kyrgyzstan) and Tbilisi (Georgia). So at least in this small country there’s still that element of respect to those who had fallen in the anti-Fascist war.

Though it’s quite a large complex I don’t consider it very attractive – and that’s principally down to the colour of the principal structure and the six large stelae on the edge of the site that separate the memorial complex from the city’s main public cemetery.

Eternity Memorial Complex – Chișinău

Eternity Memorial Complex – Chișinău

The principal structure is in the form of a large, open pyramid formed by five, 25 metre high stylised stone rifles. The numbers 1941, 1942, 1943, 1944 and 1945 are displayed on each of the struts indicating the years from the time that the Soviet Union was invaded until the year that the Red Army entered Berlin. In the centre is a five pointed star which houses the Eternal Flame.

The problem of this monument, for me, is its garish orange colour. That wasn’t always the case as, originally, both the pyramid and the stelae were the colour of the natural stone when the monument was constructed in time for the thirtieth anniversary of the end of the Great Patriotic War on 9th May 1975 (when it was known as the Victory Memorial). The structure went through a renovation in time for August 24, 2006, which marked the 62nd anniversary of the Second Jassy–Kishinev Offensive (an important victory of the Soviet Red Army over the Fascist forces – both German and Romanian – in eastern Romania). It’s almost certain it was during this renovation that the decision was taken to paint the the major structures this stand-out orange colour – an insult (assault) camouflaged as taking care of an important part of Moldova’s heritage.

Eternal Flame

Eternal Flame

I have read that the pyramid and the Eternal Flame used to have a permanent honour guard (changing every hour on the hour) but that was not the case when I visited in 2025. It’s more than likely that now the honour guard is only in place during the days surrounding the May 9th Victory Day – which is still celebrated (and is a public holiday) in Moldova. This was the situation in May 2025 in Stalingrad in Russia.

At the western edge of the complex is known as the ‘Heroes Cemetery’ where there are a number of memorials, as well as individual graves, to Red Army soldiers who died in Chișinău, either during battles within Chișinău itself in 1941 or in nearby battles towards the end of the conflict in Moldova, in August 1944, when the Nazi forces were being forced back towards their liar in Berlin. In this part of the complex as well as white pillars with the names of individual soldiers there’s a symbolic belfry and a massive bronze laurel crown which is inscribed with the words ‘We didn’t forget you’. This slogan is reflected on the more modern, major monument where can be read the words ‘No one is forgotten, nothing is forgotten’. Unfortunately, that is not the case for many in the post-Socialist Republics.

This would seem to indicate that there was a relatively small memorial to those who died in the Great Patriotic War constructed soon after 1945 but it wasn’t until 30 years later that the larger and more substantial monument we see today was constructed.

Red Army Cemetery

Red Army Cemetery

As I type this I’m trying to work out why the Revisionists (and traitors to the October Revolution and the Party, as well as the sacrifice of all those who died in the Great Patriotic War to defend Socialism) who were in control of the Communist Party of the Soviet Union in 1975 decided to sanction the building of such a major monument in Moldova and the other of the Soviet Republics at, more or less, the same time. All I can come up with is that as they were increasingly flailing having betrayed the cause of Revolutionary Socialism and so they celebrated the past in order to hide their ineptitude in the present.

Another monument, one that is much more recent than those related to the Great Patriotic War, is ‘Grieving Mother’, which is dedicated to the ‘War of Independence of Moldova’ from 1991-1992 which resulted in the establishment of the province of Pridnestrovie (called Transnistria by those in the west that challenge its right to exist) refusing – to this day – to be considered part of the Moldova which wants to integrate/ingratiate itself with the European Union.

There is supposed to be a black cross which was erected on the site of the graves of fallen German soldiers buried here. However, I missed that (if, indeed, it does exist). It seems to be very strange to have such a fascist monument in exactly the same location as the country’s principal monument to the Soviet fallen in the Great Patriotic War. I’ve come across a monument to the German dead in Tirana, Albania – but at least that’s in a different park to the location of the National Martyrs Cemetery. There’s something off about having a memorial to Fascist dead in the country let alone in a complex commemorating the country’s martyrs to fascism.

Along the walkways there are a total of 155 marble slabs with the names of those who died in the battle against Nazism.

As stated above there are six, very large, square stelae (also now painted the same bright orange as the monument containing the Eternal Flame) which contain images of soldiers but at the same time none of them reference the enemy against which they were fighting – that is, German Nazism. Without knowing the context they could be fighting in any 20th century war.

Stela 1941

Stela 1941

The first, the one on the left as you look towards the main cemetery with the road at your back, makes an allegorical reference to the war. Here we have a young, almost naked muscular male sitting on the ground (not obviously injured in any way) with his right arm raised, above his head and slightly behind his back. In his hand he holds a huge sword with its point reaching to the edge of the stela. This might mean a willingness and preparedness to fight to defend the cause of Socialism and the lives of his family, friends and comrades. Not really sure I understand why he’s on the ground.

Behind him, is a female standing with her left arm raised with the forearm resting on her head. This would seem to indicate mourning and sadness but also a realisation that the possible sacrifice of the male (as there is no certainty that those going off to war will return) is necessary for the common good. The expression on her face also indicates grief.

In the left-hand top corner of this stela is the number 1941 – the year of the Nazi invasion of the Soviet Union.

The next four stelae have images of ranks of armed Soviet soldiers, in all of them marching forward – even though some of their comrades are injured – and urging those behind to join the fight. They are showing determination to throw out the invader although, in the actual war, there were some serious setbacks. But after the victory of the Red Army in Stalingrad the outcome of the war was certain. It was no longer a question of if, it was a question of when.

The final one, with the year 1945 in the top, right-hand corner, celebrates the victory. Here we have the image of three soldiers, almost standing to attention – their weapons no longer pointing towards the enemy. Their uniforms and headwear demonstrating the different units involved and the fur hat of the soldier on the right emphasising that this was a war of all the people’s of the Soviet Republics. The idea of peace is shown by the fact that there’s a young girl standing by the central soldier – who has his left hand resting on her shoulder. It is now safe for her carry on her life as normal, for her and all the children in the Soviet Union.

Near to the gated entrance to the complex there’s an alcove reached by a couple of steps which contains a semi-circle of marble stelae inscribed with the names of Heroes of the Soviet Union – one of them celebrating the achievements of Semyon Timoshenko. I’m not really sure why his name is included on the honour roll here. He was born in the Odesa Oblast in the Ukraine (which is close but still a separate Republic of the Soviet Union) and I’ve seen no reference to him being involved in any of the fronts that were established in Chișinău/Moldova.

Also to be found in this memorial complex to the dead of the Red Army is a Christian chapel. This is now common in such monuments throughout the post-Socialist world. This follows a ‘tradition’ established by the Roman Catholic church from the 15th/16th centuries were Christian churches were placed on top of religious sites of the indigenous American peoples in (now) Central and Southern America. Placing the European religious buildings in such locations was tantamount to thrusting a dagger into the heart of the defeated peoples’ beliefs. This was the so-called ‘extirpation of idolatry’. The same has happened in Europe. Capitalism and its obscurantist appendages are declaring their ‘victory’ over Communism. But such a ‘victory’ is only temporary.

All in all quite a cluttered site with many (often conflicting) messages. But interesting nonetheless.

Sculptors;

A. Maiko and I. Poniatowski

Architect;

A. Minaev.

Location;

9th May 1945 Memorial, Cemetery of the Heroes of the Great Patriotic War, Pantelimon Halippa Street 5,

GPS;

47.00906 N

28.83218 E

Chișinău National Fine Arts and National History Museums

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Lady of the Land

Lady of the Land

Chișinău National Fine Arts and National History Museums

Fine Arts Gallery

One of the notable aspects of the National Fine Arts Gallery in Chișinău is the way it’s been ‘curated’ to eradicate any overtly political reference to the period of Moldova’s socialist period. In this gallery the main concentration of Socialist Realist art is in the basement of the building and was predominantly represented by sculptures.

In these sculptures there is often a reference to the workers or peasants as a part of society, as individuals but part of a community, even though they may be depicted alone. An image of a worker isn’t the image of that person rather he or she is a representative of the participants in that particular work place, whether it be in industry or in agriculture.

But the sculptures don’t just make reference the national situation but also to international issues. For example, there’s a statue of a grieving mother (making reference to the Zionist bombing of Lebanon) and there’s a ceramic sculpture of a young Vietnamese woman – an idea of international solidarity amongst Socialist nations with the US imperialist aggression in Vietnam. Here we have a physical, artistic representation of the Socialist concept of solidarity with other peoples – something which doesn’t exist in present day Moldova whose concept of internationalism is in doing anything that will make the European Union accept their supplications for membership.

The exhibits on the other floors were very much displayed without any real effort of organisation as there didn’t seem to be any logic in what was on the walls in the majority of the rooms. A picture depicting workers during the 1960s at a hydroelectric dam, for example, would be next to one of an aristocrat/wealthy merchant from the end of the 19th century. But this lack or organisation (or, at least, any that I could see) does demonstrate the difference in emphasis from the different historical periods.

It shows the different way in which workers are depicted in Socialist Realist art from that under capitalism. Before the October Revolution ‘realist’ paintings of workers would emphasise the drudgery, the monotony, the drabness of labour. Socialist Realist art stresses the importance and necessity of labour but instead of a worker bring under the control of capitalism and working for the benefit of a few under a Socialist system the workers are working for themselves. Whether that always was the case is not important. That was the aim of the new society. Under capitalism labour is ALWAYS appropriated by the capitalist and insecurity is ALWAYS the lot of the worker.

And if workers are not depicted as being exploited and oppressed there is often a condescension oozing out of the canvas. For example, in this gallery there was a painting of a young (child) shepherdess playing a flute in the countryside – but she is bare footed. We have here a ‘cute’ image but it depicts the subject as if she is happy with her lot and poverty is not the scourge that it is – then and now.

It’s also noticeable that in the art produced following the collapse of the Soviet Union in the early 1990s (and the rejection to a greater or lesser extent by the various republics of the socialist ethic) is that the art then turned back to what it was pre 1917. Basically, we have the return of religious imagery, depictions of the rich and the powerful, and again the marginalisation of workers in the true sense. (‘Good’ examples of this dark and depressing religious post-Soviet art can be seen in the last rooms of the New Tretyakov Gallery in Moscow.)

Workers only appear as the backdrop. They’re only there to serve the rich and the powerful. The last thing they are allowed to have is choice and an active part in the society. They can vote, but only if they vote for what the oligarchs, the powerful, the rich, the capitalists actually want. If not, with the aid of the western powers (principally of America but also those of Europe and of Britain) local capitalists and reactionaries will do their best to foment dissension and division. Hence, in the last few years there have been demonstrations calling for ‘democracy’ which were disrupting daily life in Georgia and Moldova itself. These events follow the pattern that was so ‘successful’ in the Ukraine in 2014 and which led, inevitably, to the now more than four year proxy war in that country between the US/UK/NATO/EU and Russia. The role of organisations such as USAID and the National Endowment for Democracy (and all the other clones of those US financed ‘soft power democratic change’ organisations) has become more widely known in recent years but there will always be some who are prepared to betray their class and their country for a mess of pottage.

The birth of the Virgin

The birth of the Virgin

There was a small collection of religious art in one room of the gallery but it was mainly from the 19th century. However, these relatively late examples followed the same conventions which had been established three or four hundred years previously. A couple of images I found interesting in this particular exhibition (and which you’ll come across in many European art galleries) was the depiction of the birth of the Virgin – not referenced at all in the Bible – as a child coming from a wealthy family although in the traditional Christian story of the Nativity Mary is just an ordinary peasant woman – who’s married to a carpenter! Yet come the Renaissance she was converted into someone from an aristocratic background, with her birth being attended by many women in a very sumptuous bedroom. I’m not exactly sure when and where that idea first came into the Christian story but it seems to be all part of the appropriation of the original, humble story, to fit in with the life styles and ideology of the wealthy and powerful in society. After all, when they had themselves depicted as attending the Nativity they didn’t want to have to be seen, in all their finery, standing knee deep in cow dung.

When I visited the art gallery at the end of 2025 there was a temporary exhibition of photographs on the top floor of the building. These were photographs of people who were defined by their relationship to the means of production. It was interesting to compare this exhibition of ‘workers’ with the images of the workers from the socialist period in the basement. The impression you got from these photographs was that these were purely individuals who happened to work in a particular industry or a particular profession. They were presented as individuals, their relationship to society in general being absent.

National History Museum

The Socialist period of Moldova’s history barely gets mention in this museum. There’s a small, although quite colourful reference to the art of that period in a small section of the top floor. Here there are a few ‘classic’ paintings of Socialist Realism, a few posters and in one large glass case different artefacts that would have been common pre-1990s. These include busts of VI Lenin, banners and pendants with Soviet imagery, ceramics with images of revolutionary heroes and the like. Also a series of abstract murals which were not that common in Socialist art.

Anyway, the images in the slideshow below will hopefully give you an idea of what is on show in the Art Gallery/Historical Museum in Moldova’s capital city of Chișinău. As well as in the art in a ‘formal’ context you can also see examples of Socialist art in the mosaics in Chișinău itself (as well as in Cahul and Bălți).

Location;

National Museum of Fine Arts of Moldova

31 August 1989 St 115, Chișinău

GPS;

47.02199 N

28.83021 E

Open;

Tuesday-Sunday 10.00-18.00

Closed Monday

Entrance;

Adults; 50 MDL

Pensioners/students; 25 MDL

National History Museum of Moldova

Location;

31 August 1989 St 121A, Chișinău

GPS;

47.02269 N

28.82811 E

Open;

Tuesday-Sunday 10.00-18.00

Closed Monday

Entrance;

Adults; 50 MDL

Pensioners/students; 20 MDL

Maxim Gorky in Chișinău – Moldova

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Maxim Gorky - Chișinău - 01

Maxim Gorky – Chișinău – 01

More on Moldova – on the Post-Socialist Countries – Eastern Europe and Asia page

Maxim Gorky in Chișinău – Moldova

There are a lot of advantages of walking around post-Socialist cities looking for statues and other monuments to VI Lenin – and other revolutionary, Bolshevik leaders. One is that you end up in parts of cities you would never think to visit if not on the search for an elusive statue. The other is that you are very likely to come across another monument/bas relief/statue of which you had no previous knowledge.

That was the case in one of the walkabouts in Chișinău.

Maxim Gorky - Chișinău - 02

Maxim Gorky – Chișinău – 02

Just looking to make sure I wouldn’t be run over by some careless driver I looked into what turned out to be student accommodation of the agricultural academy. There, directly opposite the entrance, was a statue of the Soviet writer Maxim Gorky – erected in 1977.

It is not in the best of conditions and its surrounding have a lot to be desired but he was there nonetheless. Perhaps not cared for but not desecrated either. Indicating to me that there was some sort of respect to the person as a writer – in a country (that is, all the post Socialist countries) where literacy (and education in general) was considered something to be treasured.

Maxim Gorky - Chișinău - 03

Maxim Gorky – Chișinău – 03

The privatisation of education (especially at University level) might have challenged some of those precepts by now but the power of the word and the book (although now, perhaps digital) has not gone away. In Tirana, for example, when the rest of the society was falling apart there was still an annual book fair and the country was publishing books, in the Albanian language, in numbers relative to population levels, which major English speaking countries could only envy.

Hence more than 30 years after the dissolution of the Soviet Union a statue of the great Soviet writer still stands in a housing complex on the edge of Chișinău city centre.

Maxim Gorky - Chișinău - 04

Maxim Gorky – Chișinău – 04

But this is not a unique piece of art. Some of the more expensive (granite or marble) statues of the top leadership might have been individually made but many statues (including some of those of Comrades Lenin and Stalin) would have been massed produced.

So it is with the writer Maxim Gorky. The statue in Chișinău is exactly the same as the one in Family Park in Almaty, Kazakhstan.

For anyone interested in Soviet Literature, including some of the works of Maxim Gorky, visit Culture, science, literature and art in the USSR.

Location;

Strada Constantin Tănase 7

GPS;

47.02846 N

28.83934 E

More on Moldova – on the Post-Socialist Countries – Eastern Europe and Asia page