A Miner’s Statue – where there’s no mines

Miner's Monument - Puerto Natales - Sketches

Miner’s Monument – Puerto Natales – Sketches

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A Miner’s Statue – where there’s no mines

My interest in Socialist Realist statues and other art forms from the former socialist countries also encompasses those realist examples in capitalist countries. Coming from the UK there are few representations of working people in the streets – that area being dominated by the monarchy or their hangers-on, with the addition of a number of do-gooders (many of these statues being paid for by ‘public subscription’, i.e., the people paying for the immortalisation of their oppressors).

So it’s always interesting to see such representations and references to working people in other countries. I was pleasantly surprised, however, to encounter a statue of a miner in a city in Chilean Patagonia (Puerto Natales) which doesn’t really have any mines.

In the past there was work for coal miners but they had to cross the border to the Argentinian town of Rio Turbio, no more than a normal commute for many workers, the only difference being the need to go through a border control.

I didn’t catch a date for this statue (or the name of the artist) but it could become quite poignant if developments are as I understand.

The coal from Rio Turbio used to be transported by train to the Atlantic Argentinian port of Rio Gallegos but that all came to an end in the 1990s when the railway was virtually run to destruction. There was no investment and the trains literally fell apart. For anyone who likes trains the Railway Museum in the town is extremely depressing. The British made for TV video that is shown really chronicling forced decline due to lack of investment.

As far as I can understand the coal extracted in Rio Gallegos is mainly to provide fuel for the coal fired power station on the outskirts of the town. But coal is not the fuel of the moment with climate change and global warming. This allows the neo-liberal government in Buenos Airies the opportunity to destroy, and dispose of, yet another aspect of public property without the trouble of actually privatising the industry

This struggle to maintain jobs was linked to the recovery by Argentina of the Malvinas – as depicted on a mural in the Rio Gallegos port area – where the infrastructure for the export of coal still exists but in an abandoned state.

And here we have a real dilemma. Coal is dirty (but not the worst polluter in the overall view of things) but closing down mines – as has been demonstrated in many places throughout the world – is not that simple. Coal mining dominates a town, close the mines down you might as well close down the town. If there were, and still are, problems in the UK, when the mines were closed at an alarming rate after the Miner’s Strike of 1984-5, that will be multiplied many fold in a town like Rio Turbio, a border town at what is always referred to as ‘the end of the world’.

No mine in Rio Turbio will mean no Rio Turbio.

So a few pictures of this statue. It doesn’t really say anything, it just represents an underground miner using a manual drill, which I thought would have been a thing of the past, even in this border region in Patagonia.

Miner's Statue - Puerto Natales

Miner’s Statue – Puerto Natales

Miner's Statue - Puerto Natales

Miner’s Statue – Puerto Natales

Miner's Statue - Puerto Natales

Miner’s Statue – Puerto Natales

Miner's Statue - Puerto Natales

Miner’s Statue – Puerto Natales

Miner's Statue - Puerto Natales

Miner’s Statue – Puerto Natales

The statue is located in the middle of a dual carriageway that runs beside the new bus station in Puerto Natales. Across from the main statue, on the other side of an access road, are two triangular pillars united by two iron rails, possibly representing the iron rails of the mine railway.

On four of those six faces there are some simple sketches reflecting the work that miners carry out underground. Very basic, monochrome sketches and lacking in detail but they do convey a message of the working man in Puerto Natales/Rio Turbio – even though that future might be under threat.

Miner's Monument - Puerto Natales - Sketches

Miner’s Monument – Puerto Natales – Sketches

Miner's Monument - Puerto Natales - Sketches

Miner’s Monument – Puerto Natales – Sketches

Miner's Monument - Puerto Natales - Sketches

Miner’s Monument – Puerto Natales – Sketches

Miner's Monument - Puerto Natales - Sketches

Miner’s Monument – Puerto Natales – Sketches

Miner's Monument - Puerto Natales - Sketches

Miner’s Monument – Puerto Natales – Sketches

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Malvinas Monument El Calafate

Malvinas Heroes Square - El Calafate

Malvinas Heroes Square – El Calafate

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Malvinas Monument El Calafate

El Calafate also has a Malvinas Monument, the one here being situated on the western end of the town’s main street, Avenida del Libertador, just before reaching the town limit. This is in the middle of a large square dedicated to the Heroes of the Malvinas War.

But as with the monument in Rio Gallegos I find it difficult to interpret the image and haven’t been able to get any closer to the intended meaning by speaking with local people.

Malvinas Heroes Square - El Calafate

Malvinas Heroes Square – El Calafate

It’s a simple monument consisting of three black, panel vertical panels (with a small space between them) – with the outline of the Islas Malvinas spreading across the top of all three. The panels are of metal and hollow and the design of the islands has been cut into the front side and with the interior of the panels being painted white the outline is clear under all conditions.

Standing in front of the panel – at about one and half life size – is a statue of a woman made from plaster on a metal frame. Her back is to the panel and she stands with her legs apart facing the main street. When I first saw this statue I thought it was one of the many attempts of Argentina to make some recognition that the country was actually stolen from the indigenous population and although nothing will be given back such statues are considered to be a form of saying sorry – a very cheap way and fundamentally meaningless.

Malvinas Heroes Square - El Calafate

Malvinas Heroes Square – El Calafate

However, I realised my mistake when I actually got to the square. Or then perhaps not. I just can’t understand what this woman has to do with the Malvinas and even less to do with the war of 1982. One explanation I was given was that she is supposed to represent an indigenous woman and there is a conflation of the pain and suffering of the indigenous people and the desire of Argentina to regain sovereignty of the islands.

That would make sense if not for a number of inconsistencies. She’s dressed in a mini-dress (unlike any female clothing I’ve seen of the people who lived in Patagonia before the colonisation of the southern cone in the late 19th century) and for some other inexplicable reason the strap over her right shoulder has been broken or released and this means that her right breast is exposed.

Malvinas Heroes Square - El Calafate

Malvinas Heroes Square – El Calafatel

This might be trying to say that she is some type of Amazon prepared to fight for what should, by rights, belong to Argentina. But that doesn’t make sense from all the historical information I’ve so far been able to pick up. The indigenous weren’t fighters. They were nomadic hunter gatherers. Yet she is depicted with a spear that is about one and half times her own height.

To me she looks more like a young woman who has had a wild Friday night out in the centre of a major British town than anything else.

Malvinas Heroes Square - El Calafate

Malvinas Heroes Square – El Calafate

The other inconsistency is that she is holding, in her left hand – whilst at the same time holding her spear – a very large book. What this book represents I can only surmise. If a book of remembrance this takes us even further away from the indigenous idea. In fact, any book of any kind is totally inconsistent with the period before colonisation as the local people didn’t have a written language (and one of the reasons the indigenous languages are disappearing – or have already disappeared).

As for her stance she has her head thrown back and is looking up to the heavens. That stance, together with her right hand being held high above her head in supplication, seems to indicate that she is begging from an unseen and non-existent God that help is given to obtain the liberation of the Malvinas from foreign, imperialist control.

Malvinas Heroes Square - El Calafate

Malvinas Heroes Square – El Calafate

So there’s a conflict between the images and the message I assume it is trying to convey

Both the woman and the panels are placed on top of a square, brick plinth painted yellow. I think the yellow is to reflect the Sun of May that sits in the centre of the Argentina flag, adding a third national colour to the blue and white. On the face of this plinth, under the feet of the woman and facing the street, are a number of plaques and the photo of an individual soldier. As in the monument in Rio Gallegos these consist of different entities making their support known to the cause being represented by the statue.

Malvinas Heroes Square - El Calafate

Malvinas Heroes Square – El Calafate

The statue of the woman is starting to show signs of lack of maintenance and some of the plaster is starting to separate from the metal framework. The general area is also showing signs of lack of care. This might just be a case that cuts in public expenditure mean that public spaces are being neglected – as in many countries where neo-liberal policies are being enforced in a radical manner and the public infrastructure is being neglected. The state of many public spaces in Argentina would seem to support that point of view.

Malvinas Heroes Square - El Calafate

Malvinas Heroes Square – El Calafate

I saw nothing that indicated the artist or the date of inauguration.

So another Argentinian statue that asks more questions that it provides answers.

Malvinas Heroes Square - El Calafate

Malvinas Heroes Square – El Calafate

The problem the Argentinian state – and people – face is that although there is an overwhelming feeling that ‘Las Malvinas son Argentinas’ they also know that there is no military solution (especially after Galtieri cocked it up in 1982) and although the occupation of the Malvinas on the part of the British costs a fortune (and one of the reasons the British were slowly abandoning the islanders to their own fate in the months leading up to the 1982 war) the British are also hoist by their own petard.

Any British government that were to hand the islands back to Argentina would be condemned as treasonous by a sizeable proportion of the British population and media. So it won’t happen peacefully either.

Such are the games that capitalist nation states play.

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The 1922 Patagonian Rebellion

1922 Patagonian Peasants Rebellion Monument

1922 Patagonian Peasants Rebellion Monument

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The 1922 Patagonian Rebellion

In the area that is the Estancia La Anita, just a few kilometres from the town of El Calafate, can be found a humble monument to workers who, in the 1920s rose up in opposition to the feudal and almost slave like conditions in which the workers in the countryside had to endure.

As it was Anarchist led, by those who had fled from their governments, principally in Spain and Italy, this peasants revolt ended up in the massacre of hundreds of workers, a mixture of Argentines and Chileans.

They had risen up against the owners of the estancias, taking both hostages and arms in the process. However, due to poor leadership they found themselves isolated when the national government sent in the calvary.

With the end of the 1914-1919 war the price of wool plummeted and the landowners forced the lower costs on the workforce. In August 1920 the rural workers went on strike and this led to an armed confrontation in El Cerrito (on the road between Calafate and Rio Gallegos) in January 1921.

1922 Patagonian Peasants Rebellion Monument

1922 Patagonian Peasants Rebellion Monument

Hostages were taken by the rebels and this was used as an excuse by the landowners to call upon the national government to declare a state of emergency and the Army was sent from Buenos Airies. An agreement was reached between the Army, the landowners and the strikers and the army left the area but the landowners reneged and violence re-erupted. Not surprisingly the English landowners played a major role in pushing for the repression of the strikers. This was when the massacres occurred.

The Army general took a hard line and being outnumbered, outgunned and outmanoeuvred strikers gave up their arms and surrendered. This was a mistake as once unarmed they were summarily executed. Up to 1,500 were eventually shot and buried in unmarked graves.

I have no date for this monument, only really seeing it for a few seconds as the bus to the Perito Moreno stopped and an explanation given. A simple monument (with an obligatory Christian cross) but at least now, almost 100 years later, this rebellion of the workers in the countryside is being remembered on a local basis.

The uprising is known as the Patagonia Rebelde or Patagonia Trágica (Rebel Patagonia or Tragic Patagonia.)

1922 Patagonian Peasants Rebellion Monument

1922 Patagonian Peasants Rebellion Monument

‘Viajero que pasas por este lugar … recuerda que a lo largo y a lo ancho de estos territorios, en tumbas sin nombres, pero no por ello olvidados, yacen aquellos que se alzaron en defensa de sus derechos. En 1922 cayeron fusilados en la Patagonia Argentina cientos de trajabadores laneros y peones rurales de diversas nacionalidades por revalarse contra condiciones de trabajo inhumano y reclamar salarios justos.

Hoy los recordamos …. aqui, en calles y escuelas, por que “La ética siempre vuelve a sugir por más que la degüuellen, la fusilen, la secuestren o la desaparazcan.” (Osvaldo Bayer)’

Translation:

Traveller, who passes this place ….. remember that throughout the width and breadth of these territories, in unmarked graves, but not for that forgotten, rest those that rose up in defence of their rights. In 1922, in the Argentine Patagonia, hundreds of shepherds and peasant workers from diverse countries were shot for rebelling against inhuman working conditions and for demanding decent wages.

“Ethics always reappear no matter how much they slay it, shoot it, kidnap it or disappear it.” Osvaldo Bayer

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